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This extract if from James Holman’s, R.N., Travels in China, New Zealand, New South Wales, Van Dieman’s Land, Cape Horn, etc., etc., pubished by George Routledge, London, 1840. Although published in 1840 this expedition took place in the year of 1831.
PP. 451-469.
“On the 10th of October I set out from Sydney in company with Lieut. Futter, R.N., for Argyle, with the intention of joining a party who proposed to perform a journey over the coast range of mountains to the sea, near Jervis Bay, for the purpose of ascertaining whether it would be practicable to make a road from Argyle to the coast. In the afternoon, a short distance beyond Liverpool, we met Mr. Ryrie, who informed Lieut. Futter that his overseer had been barbarously murdered at an out-station, by some of the men under his charge. In consequence of this information we hastened forwards, passing the first night at Kirkham, with Lieut. Vine, R.N., the second at Bong Bong, and reached Lumley on the third, a distance of one hundred and forty miles from Sydney. On our arrival Lieut. Futter repaired to Goulburn Plains to inquire into the circumstances of his overseer’s death, and obtain the assistance of the magistrate in prosecuting the implicated party. Finding that he was likely to be detained, I determined to proceed without waiting his return, and started early on the 17th for Mr. Ryrie’s farm, Arn-Prior, by a different route from that which I had taken on a previous occasion. I proceeded as far as Lake Bathurst, and then crossed the country in an easterly direction, but did not reach the farm of Mr. Ryrie till long after dark, the ignorance of my guide having greatly increased the distance, as I might have made my way through the bush in half the time. I always console myself, however, on being misled, by the acquisition of additional knowledge of the topography of the country, to which such accidents always lead. From Arn-Prior, the residence of Mr. Ryrie, I pursued my journey for thirty miles to Narriga [Nerriga], the farm of Mr. Galbraith, who had invited me to accompany him in exploring the country for the purpose already mentioned. His farm is situated on the inland side of the coast range, and not more than twenty miles in a direct line from the sea. We examined a ford across the Shoalhaven river at Kallimundy, about eight miles from his farm, and over which it would be necessary to erect a bridge, in case a road should be formed. We found the stream rapid and the bottom greatly incommoded by some very large stones. On the following day we visited an opening in the coast range, abreast of Jervis Bay, through which we thought the road might be carried without much difficulty. About four miles from Mr. Galbraith’s house we crossed the Endrick, a small stream which falls into the Shoalhaven, and soon after reached the Kloof, and opening in the mountains which has the appearance of being caused by some convulsion of nature. We proceeded nearly 300 yards up the gorge, which was almost impassable, from the quantity of brushwood, and masses of friable sandstone, until we reached the table land of the range, where one of my companions had a fine view of the sea. The result of our inspection was a conviction of the feasibility with which a road might be formed here, and surprise that the convicts are not employed in a labour, that would be attended with such considerable benefit to the Colony.
“If, instead of sending the irreclaimable convicts, by which I mean those malefactors who have undergone a colonial sentence, and are condemned a second time to banishment - if. instead of sending them to Norfolk Island, to expiate their crimes in unprofitable labour, they were to be employed at the remote points of the Colony in removing the great natural difficulties that arrest the progress of colonization, to what vast objects of utility might not the physical power, which is now lost to the Settlement, be employed. Lofty mountains and rapid streams divide the fertile lands from extensive regions that lie uncultivated beyond, and it requires but that those distant tracts shall be rendered accessible to the settler, in order that they may be reduced beneath the dominion of the plough. But such great designs cannot be accomplished by individuals: they demand all the united efforts of organized bodies; and, as all the purposes proposed by Government in sentencing the convicts to Norfolk Island, would be attained by placing them at those remote stations, where they could be made the instruments of real general benefit, it appears to me extraordinary that the obvious advantages of such a measure has not led to its adoption. If it were carried into effect, the expense of the transhipment of the convicts, which is heavy, would be spared; besides the risk of losing vessels, which has sometimes occurred, when the convicts have availed themselves of favourable opportunities to seize them, would be avoided; while the same ,ilitary force that now guards them at Norfolk Island would be sufficient for their surveillance eslewhere, and the main object of their banishment - their exclusion from all communications with their fellow convicts - would still be secured.
“Having remained at few days at Mr. Galbraith’s, we set out on our expedition, being accompanied by Mr. Galbraith, Mr. W. Ryrie, a servant, and two of the natives as guides. About three miles from the farm we passed a waterfall, near which we commenced our ascent of the range, which threw many obstacles in our way, being steep, stony, and thickly wooded. My companions proceeded on foot, leading their horses, while I remained on horseback, being led by one of the guides. He was so occupied, however, in picking his own steps, that he frequently forgot me, and I was consequently consigned to the tender mercies of the branches by which we were surrounded, and by which I was at length carried off my horse, receiving some contusions by the fall. I could only congratulate myself that I was not left, like Absalom, in a state of suspension. Having reached the summit, our way became less difficult for tow or three miles, but we were again interrupted by a deep muddy creek, on Yerrock Flats, which we were unable to ford until we had proceeded in a southerly direction nearly to its source. Descending in an easterly direction, we bivouacked for the night on some very damp sandy ground, hobbled our horses, and left them to shift for themselves; and having kindled a fire, our native attendants made us some tea, after which we rolled ourselves up in blankets, with our saddles for pillows, and lay down for the night. The novelty of my situation kept me awake in spite of the fatigues of the day, and I was entertained till daybreak with a howling serenade from the wild native dogs. In the morning we resumed our journey, and passed through trackless and stony gullies, in which our way was greatly impeded by jungle, and creepers of an extraordinary size and length. Our blacks were totally unacquainted with this part of the route, and were so disconcerted by the difficulties which we had to encounter, that we were obliged to halt for the purpose of recruiting their spirits, as well as our own. On setting out again, we had for a short space a level country, in which many cattle tracks were observed. This easy route, however, did not long continue, and we returned once more to our former laborious travelling, which appeared at times to bear a very close resemblance to a steeple chase. We looked in vain for a herdsman’s hut, in which we might repose for the night, and were obliged to content ourselves once more with the sky for our canopy. The place which we chose for our retreat was one of excessive wildness, surrounded by forests, caverns, dried up streams, and patches of land covered with fallen trees. Our situation was rendered the more comfortless, by the discovery that our tea and sugar bags had been torn from their fastenings by the branches of the trees. This loss, however, was of but slight importance, in comparison with that which we encountered the following morning, when to our dismay, we discovered that all of our horses had disappeared. Fortunately, after a weary search we recovered them all but one, which we heard no more of during the remainder of our expedition. In the afternoon we resumed our journey under the very unfavourable appearances, for the sky  bore visible marks of an impending thunderstorm. Our fears were soon realized; the rain came down in torrents, and the thunder and lightning were of that awful grandeur, which none but those who have witnessed their effect in a tropical climate can well conceive. My companions gave way under the depressing effects produced by the storm, and all my efforts to induce them to push on, in hopes of finding a stockman’s hut, were used in vain, notwithstanding our provisions were getting very short, and we knew not when we should have the opportunity of replenishing them. We had not long remained debating, under the chilling influence of the wetting we had received, when our blacks entreated us to ‘nangry’ there, having discovered a cave which they said would afford us ample shelter. This information decided the dispirited set, and we descended a deep gully. On arriving at the cave we found it much more commodious than we expected. It was a natural gallery in the solid rock, about twenty-five yards long, and open at each extremity. Here we made a fire, and endeavoured to dry our clothes, but the smoke prevented our approaching it until the wood reduced to embers. The natives more wisely kindled their fire on the outside, beneath an overhanging rock. When we had refreshed ourselves, we lay down to repose on our rocky couch, having left our horses to luxuriate on the fine grass in the gully. The next morning we proceeded for about an hour over a level tract of land, but were stopped at length by an immense gully, which we determined on descending, to avoid the circuitous route we must otherwise have taken. Our descent was very tedious, and occupied nearly two hours; it was further delayed by the chicanery of our guides, who frequently asked us to stop, under pretence of finding the way, while they amused themselves with cutting down the palm-trees, for the sake of the cabbage which grows on the top.
“Soon after our departure from this gully, our journey assumed a new character, and presented difficulties of a different nature from those we had hitherto experienced. As we approached the shores of the coast, the country became very flat and boggy, occasionally overgrown with high rushes, and intersected with salt-water creeks. Our progress was suddenly checked by our horses sinking almost up to their middle in the marsh, and we were obliged to dismount among the rushes, which served to support us. Our people had great difficulty in extricating the horses, which they were enabled to effect by laying branches of trees on the ground to prevent themselves from sinking while they were occupied in the work. Having waded through this boggy tract, we succeeded at length in reaching the hut of some stock-keeper, belong to Mr. M’Leay. After four days’ wandering in the woods of New South Wales, we hailed this poor cabin with sincere satisfaction, though its inhabitants, our companions for the night, were two wretched outcasts from the mother-country. We are indebted to them, however, for their hospitable and attentive behaviour, at a time when we were most capable of appreciating it, and were so pleased with their civility, that we asked them at parting whether we could render them any service in return. They with much modesty requested us to grant them two favours only, both of which were readily complied with. The first was that we would give them a little tobacco, as they had been for some time smoking the leaves of the Currajong tree, which are used by the aborigines as a substitute for tobacco, being similar to it in texture, as well as possessing narcotic properties in a minor degree. The other favour was the gift of one of our three dogs, to protect their hut against the attacks of the natives.
 “About noon we made our way through the bush to the shore near Jervis Bay; soon after which we passed between two salt-water lakes [Swan Lake and Conjola Lake] and the sea. We continued our journey, partly along the beach, and crossed, a little before sunset, a large and rapid tidal creek, named Narrawalla [Narrawallee], at no great distance from the sea. A number of natives, whom we found on the banks, cautioned us against crossing with our horses, and offered to take us over in their frail canoes, which we deemed a still more dangerous plan, and accordingly waited till near dark, when the water had abated sufficiently to permit our crossing. We proceeded thence to the farm of Mr. Kendall, who had sent us a very polite invitation. This gentleman had resided a long time in New Zealand, as a Missionary; he spoke the language of that country fluently, and had published a New Zealand grammar. His property principally consists of cedar, which he sends to the Sydney market, by sailing boat. The finest cedar in the Colony has been found on the coast ranges, and many trees are met with which have fallen from age, and when the decayed sap-wood has been removed, the heart-wood has been found in fine preservation, from two to five feet in diameter. In all the accessible parts, to the south of Sydney, it is fast disappearing. On leaving Mr. Kendall’s farm, we had a gradual descent of five miles to the sea, at the end of which we reached a snug little harbour for small vessels, called by the natives Ulladolla [Ulladulla]. Four miles to the southward we crossed a very deep creek [Burrill], in which the tide was running out so strong, that had our horses lost their footing, they must inevitably have been carried into the surf.
“In the lakes and along the shore plenty of fish are to be had, those in the former, being almost entirely a species of fresh water mullet. The natives are usually very successful in fishing, in their light barks, and when they bring their prey on shore, they all assemble around a fire, and eat them half dressed from the embers, until they become so torpid with satiety, that they lie down and sleep. Twelve miles from the creek brought us to Mr. Morris’ farm, at Morramoorang [Murramarang]. About half a mile from  this part of the coast, there is a small island [Brush Island], where some rabbits have been placed, and with which it is now completely over-run. The only conveyance thither was a slight native canoe, made out of a single piece of bark; in which Mr. Galbraith ventured over and had some excellent sport. He observed the skeletons of rabbits, which he supposed had been seized by birds of prey.
“In consequence of an accident that happened to Mr. Galbraith’s mare, and which induced him to remain until she was able to travel, I resolved to push on, attended by a native guide. I accordingly proceeded on my journey, and travelled nearly sixteen miles through scrub, and forest land, until I arrived on the banks of the river Clyde [probably just south of Brooman], which falls into Bateman’s Bay. Our course now lay parallel with the stream for about five miles, then we crossed the river, and resolved on passing the night on its right bank. As the rain was falling very heavily, we erected a gunyer [gunyah], or native hut, of sticks and bark, which we collected near the spot. It was twelve feet long and six in height, and with a good fire in front, formed no bad protection from the inclemency of the weather. Being erected very near the river, the latter, as it rose with the tide, approached so closely as to threaten the extinction of our fire; but, happily, it soon after began to recede. Numbers of fine fish, attracted by the light of our fire, were constantly springing out of the water, within a few yards of our hut; but our native guides were too lazy to spear them, which might easily have been done by keeping them between the fire and a canoe, that they could have taken from the beach. So long as the natives have enough to serve their present wants, they will not give themselves the trouble to increase their store, yet, it was rather tantalizing, though not actually in want of provisions, to hear a number of large fish jumping about as if in defiance of our power.
“We started the next morning at an early hour; and in passing a creek [Currowan Creek or Nelligan Creek], the banks of which are rather steep, the ground gave way beneath my horse, and we were precipitated together into the stream; I did not, however, suffer any material injury from the accident. We proceeded this day a distance of twenty-five miles, over ground exceedingly rough and broken; and, as I was the only one mounted, my companions naturally complained of fatigue, and were desirous of resting for the night, in which determination I could not refuse to concur, though we were led to suppose that a settler’s farm was to be found at no greater distance than three of four miles. We accordingly set about collecting firewood, as well as sticks and bark for a gunyer [gunyah], after which my native guide rambled into the woods, and, from his facility for climbing trees, soon returned with a large squirrel, an opossum, and several fish, which he threw down before the man who was preparing our supper. This will shew what these people can do when they choose to exert themselves; for as both the opossum and squirrel leap frequently from tree to tree, it requires no little agility to capture them.
Early on the following morning we left our encampment on Nulligan Flats [Nelligen Flats], and passed over a mountain of the same name; its height may be imagined from our having taken four hours to reach its summit, during which we were often wet through, by repeated heavy showers. In descending, my horse was attacked by one of the most venomous serpents in the country, who raised himself in the grass and endeavoured to reach one of the animal’s legs. He was immediately, however, dispatched by my  companions. Soon after this we passed the M’Leay River [Buckenbowra River], which falls into Bateman’s Bay, and is navigable, eight miles from the sea, for boats of fifteen tons burden; a great advantage to Mr. Thompson, whose farm is situated only four miles from the point of navigation; as the difficulty of passing the coast range renders the conveyance of goods to and from Sydney by land quite impracticable. From Mr. Thompson’s I proceeded to the farm of Mr. Flannigan [Francis Flanagan, an Irishman, arrived in the Colony in 1827 and established his property ‘Shannon Rise’, in 1828, at Mullenderee, off Larry’s Mountain Road.] situated near the southern-most boundary of the Colony, which terminates on the left bank of the Murroo [Moruya or Deua River]. On my way, I was once more wet through in a thunderstorm, to which I had been exposed for several days without suffering any inconvenience, a fact at which I am at a loss, whether to attribute to my health being strengthened by exposure, or to the peculiar salubrity of the climate. Mr. Flannigan had been a fashionable tailor in the town of Sydney, where it might be supposed he had made more of his cabbage than he was likely to do in his farm, which was situated at least 200 miles from Sydney by land. There is a safe cove for small vessels about seven miles from the farm, but as no vessels come to this harbour, except expressly for produce, his products must be considerably diminished by the expense of sending his goods to market. The distance, also, from any township in which there is a bench of magistrates, has the effect of rendering his servants quite unmanageable. The nearest town, Inverary, is about eighty miles distant, so that such of his servants as he may send thither are detained from their labour for upwards of a week, besides the overseer who usually accompanies them. This is one of the evils attending the possession of a grant in a remote situation.
“It would seem that a great distance at which many of the settlers are from a bench of magistrates, is not the sole origin of the insolence and misconduct with which the convict-servants too often conduct themselves. When the settler does put himself to the expense and inconvenience of bringing an offender before a magistrate, the latter may sentence him to receive a number of lashes, but this punishment is frequently executed in such a manner as to negative its intended effects. If the magistrate were more attentive to the administration of punishment, it cannot be doubted that there would be less occasion for its infliction. So long as the assigned servants are kept under proper control, and in fear of a bench of magistrates, they perform their tasks well; but once removed by distance, or carelessness in the administration of punishment, from wholesome coercion, they exhibit the same ungovernable passions for the indulgence of which they were sentenced to exile from their native country. To shew that the manner of inflicting punishment is often turned into a mere jest, I will give the following example : - a man is brought before the bench for breaking open his master’s store, and stealing articles therefrom; or, when he was appointed to watch the sheep, going to sleep, and suffering the native dogs to worry, disperse, and destroy some of them: for one of these, or similar offences, the magistrates sentence him to receive a certain number of lashes: but, instead of having this punishment inflicted in a proper and impressive manner, the offender is sent off to some retired spot, with a constable, followed by a jailor, or some other person, appointed as a flogger, both of them, perhaps, prisoners themselves; and it may easily be supposed, that, under such circumstances, the punishment becomes a mere matter of form, particularly if the culprit can afford to bribe the parties. In some cases the prisoner has been seen walking away, laughing and talking with the constable and flogger, and, no doubt, indulging in many a joke at the expense of the inadequate administration of the laws under which he was condemned. In the army and navy, punishments are attended with great ceremony; and as many of the magistrates are officers in one or other of the services, why could not the punishment of prisoners, be conducted in a similarly impressive manner. The choice of persons to fill the situation of magistrate, is one of the most responsible functions of the local Government, and it be almost as well that there should be none at all, than that those who are appointed should act in a way calculated to bring their authority into contempt. The respectability, as well as the onerous nature of the situation, demands that the magistrate should, at least, maintain the dignity which is due to his office. In one instance, a magistrate so far forgot himself, as to act as a cattle driver, not merely in assisting in driving his own herd, but one belonging to others, through an extent of country far exceeding 100 miles: associating with the servants who accompanied him, as a companion, rather than the master; being habited like them in a jacket and trowsers of Paramatta cloth, and otherwise conducting himself without any reference to his station. I was assured, by a respectable settler, that such was his appearance and conduct that he could not introduce him to his family, and the consequence was, that he passed the night in the same out-building as the servants. From the opportunities I have had of making observations on human nature, I am convinced that there are a few persons who possess the happy tact of being able to associate with their inferiors, and yet continue to command the respect that is due to their rank in society.
“Being anxious to pass the boundary line of the Colony, I rose early on the 6th of November, and proceeding to the River Murroo  [Moruya or Deua River], but the tide was running so strong, that the horse with difficulty advanced against it. On gaining the opposite bank, I was obliged to turn back immediately, as the tide was running with such rapidity that the water was above my knees; however, I was much gratified with having accomplished this favourite intention. Bidding Mr. Flannigan farewell, I rejoined my friends at Mr. Thompson’s about sunset. It was arranged that we should leave the coast two days after, for the purpose of ascending the mountains, and as I knew that would be a task of some difficulty, I proceeded ten miles in advance of my companions the night previously. I was attended by two native guides, and on arriving within a short distance of the mountain we prepared our encampment for the night, kindled a fire, and hobbling my horse, turned him out to graze on the fine pasture by which we were surrounded. On rising in the morning, I was much mortified to learn that my foresight was rendered unavailing, by the horse having strayed back to Mr. Thompson’s farm. I was thus obliged to wait for my companions, who, brought him with them about the middle of the day. On reaching the summit of the range, which we took three hours and a half to accomplish [it is probable that they followed the ‘Corn Trail’], we found the ground very level, with a gentle declivity, for nearly twelve miles; but we were occasionally incommoded by bogs and creeks. We put up for the night at a hut occupied by some convict-servants, whose respectful attention, and the accommodation they afforded us after our fatigues and privations, rendered us truly grateful. Here a notorious individual, named Michael Power, also sought refuge for the night. He had a herd of cattle with him which he was about to drive to Nulligan [Nelliegen] Flats, where he purposed erecting a hut. He was a free man, and had on so many occasions testified a sneaking likeness for other people’s cattle, that the the was [sic] generally called the cattle fancier. Whenever any stray cattle come within his reach, he is said to secure them immediately, by putting his brand upon them.
“At sunrise we again set out, and proceeded to the farm of Captain M’Kellar, about six miles distant [Captain Duncan Mackellar was granted 2000 acres in 1822. The property was called ‘Strathallan’, although Mackellar did not settle there until 1829. He sold the property to John Coghill in 1836], from which we pursued our way to the abode of Mr. Ryrie, at Arn-Prior, where we passed the night. Here I took leave of my friend, Mr. Galbraith, to whom I am much indebted for his attention to my personal comforts during our late journey, in which no exertion or endurance was spared on our part, though, unfortunately, not attended with the utility which we had anticipated. We subsequently learnt, that many of the inconveniences which we suffered, might have been avoided, had we taken a northerly course on leaving Narriga [Nerriga]. The line which we adopted on arriving at the creek, at Yerock Flats, was taken in direct opposition to the advice of our guides, who strongly urged us to follow the ranges in a northerly direction; but one of our party, under an erroneous impression, had sufficient influence to prevail, and the consequence was, that we committed ourselves to an adventure much more romantic and perilous than we had any idea of when we started our expedition. Had we taken the line recommended by our guides, we should have found a comparatively easy, and much shorter road to Jervis Bay, instead of being exposed to a variety of mishaps and desagrements that cast no little gloom over our journey. On the 10th of November I left Arn-prior, on my return to Lumley; and after a diversified tour, through the wildest, and most civilized districts, I arrived safely at Sydney on Christmas Eve.”
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