|
Lieutenant Colonel Collins gives this description from Bass’ Journal in his An Account of the English Colony in New South Wales, from its first settlement in January 1788, to August 1801: with remarks on the dispositions, customs, manners, &c., of the Native Inhabitants of that Country, published by T. Cadell and W. Davies, London, 1804.
pp. 459-461.
“The Norfolk, as has been already stated, sailed upon this voyage of discovery about the 7th of October 1798, with Lieutenant Flinders and Mr. Bass, and on the 11th anchored in Twofold Bay. Mr. Bass, on examination, found Twofold Bay situated on the southern end of a short chain of hummocky hills, one part of which is much more conspicuous than the rest, and lies immediately behind the bay. The land on the west side, being part of this chain of hills, is high and rocky. The shore is divided into steep cliff heads, with small intermediate beaches the one formed by the most prominent of the ridges, the other by land thrown up at the foot of their vallies. Behind the beaches are ponds of brackish water.
“The abruptness and sudden rise of the hills, for the most part, permit the vegetable earth to be washed down the vallies, as fast as it is formed. Some of the more gradual slopes retain a sufficiency of it to produce a thick coat of tolerably succulent grass; but the soil partakes too much of the stoney quality of the higher parts to be capable of cultivation. The dark luxuriant foliage of the vallies points out the advantages which they had received from the impoverished hills. Their soil is rich and deep, but their extent is narrow and limited. Both hill and valley produce large timber, and brush-wood of various heights.
“In the S.W. corner of the bay, is a lagoon, or small inlet [Nullica River], that communicates with the sea, through the beach, at the back of which it lies. The chain of hills here runs back to some little distance from the water, and leaves a few square miles of rather good ground, through which the was found to take its course in a winding direction to the S.W. for six or eight miles, where it ends in small swamps and marshes. Large boats might enter this place at a third flood, and proceed to the furthest part of it. From five to seven hundred acres of a light sandy soil might be picked out in patches of from fifty to a hundred acres each; but on the side next the mountain it soon became stoney, and on that next the lagoon it was wet and salt.
“The country along the back of the bay lies in rounded stoney hills scarcely fit for pasturage, but covered with timber, and patches of short brush.
“On the south side was another shallow inlet, larger than that on the S.W. [Kiah Inlet]; but the returning tide did not allow time to proceed to the head of it.
“Speaking generally of the land round the bay, it might be said to be much more barren than productive.
“The most common timber is a sort of gum-tree, the bark of which, along the trunk, is that of the iron bark of Port Jackson; and its leaf, that of the blue gum-tree; but its branches toward the head are of a yellow colour, and smooth. The wood is longer grained, and more tough, splitting easier and more true, than any other species of gum-tree.
“The natives are, in person, similar to those living about Port Jackson; but their language was perfectly unintelligible. They used canoes, of which they seemed very careful; for on the boat approaching a party of them, they hastily paddled on shore, and, taking their canoes upon their heads, ran off into the woods. This was on Mr. Bass’s first visit. They, however, appeared less shy of their visitors on his second; and there was reason to believe that a friendly intercourse might have been established with them.
“But very few marks of the kangaroo were seen. Both quadrupeds and birds appeared to be less numerous here than in other places. A few ducks, teal, herons, cranes, and a bird named from its bill the red-bill, were found, with some small flights of curlew and plover of a beautiful feather, upon the lagoons.
“The rocks consist of hardened clay, in which are mixed great numbers of small stones, variously tinged, some with red, others with yellow. Small portions of calcareous spar lie scattered about upon the surface of the rocky ground; strata of which are deposited irregularly in fissures formed in the body of the rocks themselves.
“Leaving Twofold Bay, the sloop proceeded to the southward.....”
The following extract is taken from Historical Records of New South Wales, Vol. III. - Hunter. 1786-1799., ed. F.M. Bladen, N.S.W. Government, 1895. It is part of a Narrative of an Expedition in the Colonial sloop Norfolk, from Port Jackson, through the strait which separates Van Dieman’s Land from New Holland, and from thence round the South Cape back to Port Jackson, completing the circumnavigation of the former Island, with some remarks on the coasts and harbours, by Matthew Flinders, 2nd l’t, H.M.S. Reliance.
In a footnote Bladen gives the following information on their boat:
“The sloop Norfolk was built by Captain Townson at Norfolk Island, in the autumn of 1798, to carry his despatches to Sydney (ante p. 408). She was 25 tons burden, and was accompanied by a private vessel named the Nautilus (Captain Bishop and Supercargo Simpson) [see also], in quest of seals at Furneaux’s Island.”
pp. 769 -
“October 9th. - At daybreak the wind shifted to S.S.W.; bore away for Twofold Bay. At half-past 10 we were 4 miles due east of Green Cape, * [Footnote - * So called by Flinders when he passed it in the schooner Francis on 3rd February, 1798.] which was nearly on with Cape Howe, bearing about S. At noon we were abreast of a point resembling a haycock, * [Footnote - * Called by Flinders ‘Haycock Point.’] which, being about 4 miles to the south of Twofold Bay, and distinguishable at some distance, is a good mark for knowing the bay from that side. Had 18 fam. 3/4 of a mile from it. Having passed the point and on with Green Cape at S. 30 degrees E., the intermediate 7 or 8 miles presenting a moderately low and not uneven coast, waving into small coves near the point.
“At a cable’s length from the low rock that lays a little off the south point of the bay there is 10 f’ms, but in standing across to the north side had no ground with 13 till we came near the head, on the west side of which is Snug cove, where we anchored in 3 1/2 f’ms, sandy bottom. The south point of the bay locked on with the head. The latitude of Snug Cove, 37 degrees 4 minutes 13 seconds S. The variation about 10 degrees East.
“The importance of this bay arises from its local situation, there being no other place of shelter for a vessel larger than a rowing-boat from Jervis Bay, in latitude 35 degrees 5 minutes S., round to Corner Inlet or to Ferneaux’s Island in 40 1/2 degree. The best of the two anchorage places is that on the north side in Snug Cove off the centre of the beach, where the south point of the bay is shut on with the head in 5 f’ms of water. A ship attempting to moor with a southerly wind should drop her outer anchor a little before the head comes on with the point, and should be careful to keep the lead out astern as she veers in shore, for she may get into less 3 before she is aware. Half a cable upon the inshore anchor would be sufficient. She would have room to swing at single anchor if let go at the time the land shuts on, and I believe two if not three ships might find berths here; smaller vessels would go closer in shore.
“Sung Cove is so situated at the back of Stony Head that that it is not seen till the vessel comes right off it; but the long outer beach on the north side, and then the head, point out its place in the bay sufficiently for a vessel to run for it who had not the sketch. * [Footnote - * The sketches referred to in this narrative have not been preserved. They were, however, probably identical with those published by Flinders in his ‘Terra Australis.’] [See inset ‘Twofold Bay’, by Lieut. Thomas Woore (dated 1834) on Flinders Map.]
“At the east end of the great south beach there is an opening which would afford excellent shelter for boats that could pass over the bar-entrance in 6 feet of water within side there are holes of 12 or 15 feet depth. This opening leads into a shoal lagoon of saltwater, which spreads itself at the back of the beach almost the whole length. There are smaller lagoons or swamps at the back of almost every other beach in the bay, but none that we could drink the water of, except at the two anchoring-places, and these were brackish. Wood can be had in abundance in every part of the bay. This place will probably be of service to whalers [Whaling History of the Bay], who, when fishing of the coast, might be glad to get shelter from a gale of wind in a place that would take so little time in going in and out, and it is not unlikely but they might find some some fish here; we saw the remains of one. * [Footnote - * The reef or rock on which these remains were seen was named by Flinders ‘Whale Spit.’] This bay has some marks by which it may be known, besides its latitude. The land at the back of the bay lays much more in hummocks than on any part of the coast near it; and there is a roundish mount about 3 leagues inland [Mount Imlay], bearing S.W. 1/2 W. from the bay, which is sufficiently distinguishable above the neighbouring hills to be seen from some distance, and may be more especially known in a fine day by having Mt. Dromedary in sight about 12 leagues distant, bearing N. b. W. from the entrance of Twofold Bay. The outer points of the bay are remarkable by having each a dry rock laying off them. The next point without that on the south side is the before-mentioned Haycock Point; and we noticed that the projection next the north point was broken, remarkable land, a flat piece appearing to be separated from it. It is high water about nine hours, and rises about 7 feet. The longitude of the coast is 150 degrees 13 minutes, which is 13 miles farther to the eastward. Our time was employed from the 9th to the 14th in surveying this bay.
“October 14th. - In the morning we sailed.....”
Flinders gives the following description in his A Voyage to Terra Australis [etc.], Vol. I, G. and W. Nicols, London, 1814; Section IV, part II:
“In September following, His Excellency Governor Hunter had the goodness to give me the Norfolk, a colonial sloop of twenty-five tons, with authority to penetrate behind Furneaux’s Islands; and should a strait be found, to pass through it and return by the south end of Van Dieman’s Land [Tasmania]: making such examinations and surveys on the way as circumstances might permit. Twelve weeks were allowed for the performance of this service, and provisions for that time were put on board; the rest of the equipment was complimented by the friendly care of Captain Waterhouse of the Reliance.
“I had the happiness to associate my friend Bass in this new expedition, and to form an excellent crew of eight volunteers from the king’s ships; but a time keeper, that essential instrument to accuracy in nautical surveys, it was still impossible to obtain.
“My report on the seals at Furneaux’s Islands had induced Messrs. Bishop and Simpson, the commander and supercargo of the snow Nautilus, to prepare their vessel for a sealing speculation to that quarter, and on Oct. 7 [1798], we sailed out of Port Jackson together. * [Footnote - * Mr. Bass’ Journal of observations upon the lands, etc. discovered or seen in this voyage, has been published by colonel Collins, in his Account of the English Colony in New South Wales, Vol II. page 143 et seq; his observations will, therefore, be generally omitted in this account.]
“The wind being fair, we passed Hat Hill [Mount Kembla] at four in the afternoon, and next morning made Mount Dromedary. I took this opportunity of passing between Montague Isle and the main; but the depth of water being uncertain, the Nautilus was desired by signal not to follow. There was no bottom with 13, and afterwards with 20 fathoms, at a mile distance from the island; and the passage seemed perfectly free from danger, and is five or six miles wide. Mount Dromedary, from which the island lies E by N 1/2 N., is the highest land upon this part of the coast; its elevation being, I think, not less than 3000 feet. The top is about three miles long, and the south end is somewhat the most elevated part, it is covered with wood, even there, but still more so down the sides; the shore under it is mostly a white, sandy beach.
“At noon the centre of the mountain bore N.N.W. four leagues, but the haziness of the weather prevented an observation being taken for the latitude, as it had before done when passing in the Francis. * [Footnote - * The highest part of Mount Dromedary appears to lie in 36 degrees 19 minutes south, and longitude 150 degrees 11 minutes east; or about 2 minutes south and 11 minutes east of its position in captain Cook’s chart.] We then hauled further off the coast, with the Nautilus in company, and being near the latitude of Cape Howe, at ten o’clock, lay to until daylight, for the purpose of obtaining a good departure; but on the ninth, the wind had veered to the south-west, and the weather having a bad appearance, we bore up for Two-fold Bay. The course after passing Green Cape, was N. 16 degrees W. seven miles to Haycock Point, and N. 44 degrees W. three or four miles from thence to the south point of entrance to the bay; the shore being all along bold, and for the most part rocky. From the south point, which may be known by its reddish appearance and having a steep rock lying off it, we steered for Snug Cove, on the north-west side of the bay and there anchored in 3 1/2 fathoms, sandy bottom, at something more than a cable’s length from the small beach, and the same distance from the two points which bound the cove. In this situation, the outer red point was hidden by Snug-cove Head; and further out, in 5 fathoms, where the Nautilus anchored, the head and point were in a line.
“In order to make some profit of this foul wind, Mr Bass landed early next morning to examine the country, whilst I went with Mr Simpson to commence a survey of Two-fold Bay. In the way from Snug Cove, through the wood, to the long northern beach, where I proposed to measure a base line, our attention was suddenly called by the screams of three women, who took up their children and ran off in great consternation. Soon afterward a man made his appearance. He was of a middle age, unarmed, except with a whaddie, or wooden scimitar, and came up to us seemingly with careless confidence. We made much of him, and gave him some biscuit; and he in return presented us with a piece of gristly fat, probably of whale. This I tasted; but watching an opportunity to spit it out when he should not be looking, I perceived him doing precisely the same thing with our biscuit, whose taste was probably no more agreeable to him, than his whale was to me. Walking onward with us to the long beach, our new acquaintance picked up from the grass a long wooden spear, pointed with bone; but this he hid a little further on, making signs that he should take it on his return. The commencement of our trigonometrical operations was seen by him with indifference, if not contempt, and he quitted us, apparently satisfied that, from people who could thus occupy themselves seriously, there was nothing to be apprehended.
“We measured 116 chains along the north beach, and having taken the necessary angles, returned to Snug Cove for the purpose of observing the latitude, but the thick squalls, which were continually passing over from the south-west, prevented a sight of the sun. The survey was continued in the afternoon, and on the following morning. 11 October, the wind being still unfavourable, the west side of the bay was nearly completed.
“I was preparing the artificial horizon for observing the latitude, when a party of seven or eight natives broke out in exclamation upon the bank above us, holding up their open hands to show they were unarmed. We were three in number, and, besides a pocket pistol, had two muskets. These they made no objection to our bringing, and we sat down in the midst of the party. It consisted entirely of young men, who were better made, and cleaner in their persons than the natives of Port Jackson usually are and their countenances bespoke both good will and curiosity, though mixed with some degree of apprehension. Their curiosity was mostly directed to our persons and dress, and constantly drew off their attention from our little presents, which seemed to give but a momentary pleasure. The approach of the sun to the meridian calling me down to the beach, our visitors returned into the woods, seemingly well satisfied with what they had seen. We could perceive no arms of any kind amongst them; but I knew these people too well not to be assured that their spears were lying ready; and that it was prudent to keep a good lookout upon the woods, to prevent surprise whilst taking the observation.
“Oct. 12. We sailed in the afternoon, with a breeze to the eastward; but the return of the wind to south-west, with threatening weather, induced me to bear up again in the evening; and we anchored on the south side of the bay. This part is not so well sheltered as Snug Cove, for the Nautilus was not quite land-locked in 3 fathoms of water. The weather became very bad in the night; and, being no better on the 13th, the two vessels were completed with wood, and the country further explored; a few more bearings were also added to our materials for laying down a plan of the bay, and thus terminated our examination.
“The latitude of Snug Cove on the north-west side of Two-fold bay, and by much the best anchorage in it, is 37 degrees 4 minutes south. The longitude, from two sets of distances of the sun west of the moon, deducting 16 1/2 minutes for the errors of the tables, was 150 degrees 3 minutes east of Greenwich. The variation of the azimuth compass observed on the beach, was 9 degrees 29 minutes and of the surveying theodolite 11 dregrees 7 1/2 minutes east. My haste to complete the survey did not allow of much attention being paid to the tides; but it was high water about nipte ??? hours after the moon passed over the meridian, and the general rise from six to eight feet.
“Two-fold Bay is not, of itself, worthy of particular interest; but as nothing larger than boats can find shelter in any other part of this coast, from Jervis Bay, in latitude 35 degrees 6 minutes, round to Corner Inlet, or to Furneaux’s Isles in 40 1/2 degrees, it thereby becomes of importance to whalers, and to other ships passing along the coast.
“Besides its latitude, Two-fold Bay may be known by Mount Dromedary, which will be seen, in moderately fine weather, at a distance of fifteen or sixteen leagues to the northward; and also by the land behind the bay lying more in hummocks than elsewhere. One of these hummocks is round, and much higher than the rest [Mount Imlay]; and bears S. 60 degrees W. (S.W. 1/2 W. nearly, by compass,) a course for it will bring a ship to the middle of the bay. On approaching near, she should look for two rocks, rather pointed, of which one lies off the outer north, and the other off the outer south point. Snug Cove is difficult to be distinguished by a stranger, but on coming near the rocky head, at the south-west end of the long northern beach, it will be seen on the south side of that head; and the anchor must be ready to be let go. If the wind be from the southward, it should be dropped a little before the head shuts on with the south point of the bay, in 5 or 6 fathoms of water; and in veering away, the lead should be kept out astern of the vessel. There is room for two or three small ships in Snug Cove, but not for more.
“Wood, in abundance, can be procured on every side of the bay; but there are only two places where fresh water can be found, and that not very good. One of these was a swampy pond upon the low neck behinf Snug Cove, where casks might be filled without much difficulty; the other is near the interior anchorage on the south side of the bay; and both are indicated in the particular plan.
“The ponds and lagoons, which are to be found at the back of most of the beaches, are frequented by ducks, teal, herons, red-bills, and some small flights of the curlew and plover. The bay seemed to be well stocked with fish; and our success with hook and line made us regret no seine, for the hauling of which many of the beaches are particularly well adapted. It is not improbable that Two-fold Bay, like some of the open bays on the east coast of Africa, may be frequented by whales at certain seasons: of this I have no decisive proof; but the reef of rocks, called Whale Spit, received its name from the remains of one found there. The natives had taken their share, and the dogs, crows, and gulls were carrying away the rest.
“Oct. 14 In the morning, we left Two-fold Bay.....”
Place Names of Twofold Bay:
Name on Woore’s 1834 Map Present Day Name
North Head Worang Point
Salt Lagoon Curalo Lagoon
North Bay Calle Calle Bay
Black Bay Yallungo Cove
Cove Head Lookout Point
Snug Bay Snug Cove
Murronbel River Nullica River
Murrongudber River Towamba River
South Bay East Boyd Bay
Red Head Red Point
|
