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Lt. Johnstone returned to the Clyde River in 1822 when he accompanied Alexander Berry and Hamilton Hume on their voyage in the Snapper. Berry reminisced on the Journey in a letter written to the Sydney Morning Herald, 12th March 1859:
“General Macquarie had, during his Government, sent a small vessel called the Schnapper, under the command of Lieutenant Johnstone, of Annandale, on an exploring expedition to the southward, in the course of which Mr. Johnstone discovered the River Clyde. This river opens into Bateman’s Bay, but from some circumstance Mr. Johnstone was unable at the time to follow up his discovery.
“Sir Thomas Brisbane requested Mr. Johnstone to complete his survey, but the attention his own affairs required made him unwilling to undertake a second voyage. The Governor happened to mention this circumstance to me, and said that he had no one whom he could appoint to complete the survey. I replied that if he would put the Schnapper under my charge, I, then a quasi navigator and correct observer, said that I would do so. The Governor acceded to my proposal, and during the preparations for the voyage, not only Mr. Johnstone, but Mr. Hamilton Hume also agreed to accompany me. We sailed early in January 1822, and entering Crookhaven, hauled our boat accross the isthmus, at a place through which I afterwards cut a canal. We explored Shoalhaven River as far as the Falls, entered Jervis Bay and St. George’s Basin, and examined every hole and corner on the coast. We also ascended the River Clyde and proceeded to its termination in a torrent or Mountain Stream.....”
The letter these extracts are taken from was written in an effort to gain public support for himself in the aftermath of the Shoalhaven Incubus libel, which involved Dr. Lang and various newspaper editors. Berry had severely underestimated the Public’s reaction to his legal actions and was publicly vilified through the letters columns of newspapers statewide. This letter vainly attempted soften public opinion against himself by presenting his self perceived position as a public benefactor rather than an exploitative millionaire.
Berry read a paper, covering the expedition, to the Philosophical Society of Australia in 1822. This paper was reprinted in Geographical Memoirs of New South Wales, Ed. Barron Field, John Murray, London, 1825. We reprint this paper in full:
“On The Geology of
Part of the Coast of
New South Wales
“DURING a former residence in this country, I was induced to visit Hunter’s River, to which my journey was made by sea and from which I returned the same way; but the vessel being forced to put into Broken Bay, I walked across to Port Jackson.
“The line of coast presents in general an aspect of bold perpendicular cliffs of sand-stone, lying in horizontal strata. These cliffs, however, are occasionally interrupted by sandy beaches, behind which the country is low and flat, the high land appearing to retire considerably. On a near inspection, these spaces, now occupied by sandy beaches, seem, at no very remote period, to have formed the entrance of bays and arms of the sea. In many places they are even now so partially filled up, that we still find extensive salt-water lagoons, separated from the ocean only by a bank of sand, through which the water yet occasionally forces a passage. The strata of sand-stone consist of beds lying one upon the other in the most regular manner, so that they have evidently never undergone any deviation from their original relative situation. It is true that the beds are not invariably strictly horizontal, but this arises perhaps from a gentle yielding of substrata. Some of these beds, although perfectly horizontal, and of regular thickness, consist of thin laminae, which incline at a considerable angle to the north-east. This sand-stone may generally be called silicious. It is rarely argillaceous, chiefly in this state over coal: it is then soft and very decomposable. Among the coal metals we occasionally meet thin beds of what me called calcareous sand-stone.
“The country immediately to the south of Hunter’s River is (as is well known) an extensive coal field. The cliffs on the sea-shore present a most interesting section of the coal-field strata. There in one day more information may be obtained, than in other places in many years. I traced the strata for nine miles, when they abruptly terminated by suddenly bending downwards, and sinking below the level of the sea. From this place a long sandy beach and low land extend to the entrance of Lake Macquarie (called also Read’s Mistake). The south head of Lake Macquarie rises into high cliffs, in which the coal strata again present themselves. Dr. Hutton would have given much for a single day’s walk along this shore. Here we see at one glance the progress of some of the most interesting operations of nature - the work of many ages. It appears as if the crust of the earth had been broken, and a bold and regular section forced upwards, and presented to our examination. Between the coal-beds we find strata of sand-stone and beds of slate-clay with vegetable impressions; sometimes (but more rarely) indurated clay-stone. Embedded in these strata, there is found abundance of argillaceous iron ore. This is occasionally cellular and in layers; but for the most part it appears in the form of petrifactions of trees and branches, irregularly dispersed. Near the southern termination of the coal-field (that is, where I have mentioned it sinking beneath the sea), two large beds gradually approach, and at length meet. They do not, however, incorporate, but run parallel; and at this place there is a mass of highly indurated pudding-stone, which reaches from the surface of the coal to the top of the cliff. The coal-cliff abruptly terminates at the entrance of Hunter’s River, then forming what is called coal-head. On the north side of the river, a sandy beach and low land extend to the vicinity of Port Stevens.
“The coal is decidedly of vegetable origin: the fibre of wood is often quite distinct.
“The vegetable impressions in the slate-clay under and over the coal are no less worthy of an attentive consideration. I have seen some of these subterranean plants in full flower, so that a skilful botanist might ascertain even their species. I think that I have been able distinctly to recognise the leaf of the zamia spiralis,
“Upon the whole, what I now advance consists of mere hints, thrown out to induce some adequately scientific person fully to investigate this very curious and untrodden field.
“I afterwards found, by examining the ravines, that the sand-stone strata extended from the sea-coast to the river Nepean on the west. In many of these ravines I found indications of coal, viz. coal-field schistus with vegetable impressions, argillaceous iron ore, the same calcareous stone formerly indicated, and even fragments of coal. Through that extent of country, the sand-stone seems to spread like a level platform; and although the country rises in hills and ridges, these seem to consist of a mass of clay, the surface of which has been worn into inequalities by the action of water. Consequently the higher portions, which contain most of the original soil, are more fertile than the bottoms of the valleys, unless these have been covered by alluvial depositions. This clay is generally at the surface red, and impregnated with iron: in some places, however, it is white and saponaceous, appearing under the form of beautiful pipe-clay; and I have seen this white clay contain nodules of calcareous stones resembling stalactites, and evidently formed by aqueous deposition. At the depth of a few feet it generally assumes the appearance of schistus, impregnated with sulphate of alumina and sulphate of iron.
“Beyond the Nepean River the sand-stone strata are forced upwards, and extend from north to south, forming the range of hills known in the colony by the name of the Blue Mountains. Towards the north shore, these mountains are sterile and rugged. Towards the south, however, the sand-stone is in many places covered or displaced by whinstone, which sometimes assumes the form of common, at other times of porphyritic trapp. In the latter state it shows itself throughout the verdant, well-watered, and very desirable pastoral district of Argyleshire. In this county, wherever the soil lies upon sand-stone, we find it consisting of the common Australian clay. Over the whinstone, again. it invariably consists of light black mould. On advancing further south, both granite and primitive lime-stone are found. I have however seen neither, and am therefore unable to speak more fully on the subject.
“As I have lately had an opportunity of examining some parts of the coast, as far south as Mount Dromedary, I shall annex a short account of such further observations as I have been able to make.
“It was Lieutenant Johnston’s and my first intention to have entered Shoal Haven River. We found it, however, opening into the sea through a sandy beach, and with a chain of breakers across the entrance, in the same manner as when it was examined several years ago by Mr. Oxley. We therefore stood towards the little haven three miles to the southward. A low sandy beach extends from the the river to Shoal Haven. There is, however, a high rocky point on the south side of the entrance; and this protects the little passage from the southerly winds, and prevents it from being filled up.
“This high land extends some miles along the coast, and it is at length terminated by a shoal lagoon. It consists of sand-stone lying upon indurated blue slate-clay, covered with the usual Australian soil. I almost think it was originally a barrier island to an extensive bay behind, now occupied by low alluvial land. At high water this place seems at first of some consideration, being rather extensive, and presenting many arms. At other times it seems merely a collection of mud banks, the tops of which are covered with mangroves, and with shallow channels. At the top of one of the arms, it is separated from Shoal Haven River by a narrow isthmus, not two hundred and fifty yards broad, and across this we hauled the boat to examine the river.
“The land at the back of Shoal Haven, and south of the river, is low and swampy, so as in some places to be incapable of producing trees. There is, however, a more elevated border along the immediate bank of the river. Behind this it sinks into a lagoon, which seems, at no distant period, to have been the bed, or a least a channel or branch, of the river, then opening into Shoal Haven. Indeed even now it is hardly elevated above the level of the sea at high water. At a distance of about eight miles from the sea, the shores of the river become high, and consist of perpendicular sand-stone cliffs [Nowra]. This appeared to be the original mouth, which formerly discharged itself into a large bay, sheltered by an island. This bay is now filled up, and presents the appearance of low alluvial land, swamps, and lagoons.
“We went up the river more than twenty miles, when we were stopped by a long rapid [Burrier]. At this place the river might be about one hundred and fifty yards wide, and was flowing perhaps double that distance over small, rounded, water-worn stones, which it hardly covered. The tide flows thus far, which may be considered the termination of the inland navigation. For some distance below, the alternate projecting points consist of alluvial land. They are, however, of small extent, often bounded behind by the steep precipices, which formed the ancient shore of the river, and seem, from the marks left by the floods, exposed to dangerous inundations. I ascended one of the cliffs near this place. The sandstone was little compact, hardly fit for the purposes of building, and although it did not entirely resemble pudding-stone, still consisted of, or at least contained, the fragments of older rocks, viz. lumps of quartz, fragments of primitive clay-slate, &c. Here I collected some alum, almost pure, which had oozed from the crevices of the strata. At the season of the year when we visited Shoal Haven River (January), we found the water hardly fresh, a few miles below the rapid, and indeed the upper part of the river more resembled a long lagoon than nay thing else, having little current, and a very inconsiderable rise and fall of tide.
“Not finding a convenient watering-place in Shoal Haven, we put into Jervis’s Bay, and anchored under the shelter of Bowen Island, where we readily supplied ourselves. I found that the heads of Jervis’s Bay and Bowen Island consisted of the same horizontal strata of sand-stone observed in other places. However, as we entered late in the evening, and went out early next morning, I had hardly an opportunity of making further observations at that time.
“On leaving Jervis’s Bay we proceeded to the southward, and in the course of the forenoon entered with our boat a small opening beyond the deep bay [Wreck Bay], south of St. George’s Head. We found the entrance defended by a reef, under which small craft might receive shelter. At this time there was a depth of four feet at low water over the bar. The inlet [Sussex Inlet] runs in a northerly direction, and terminates at the distance of about five miles, in a large salt lagoon [St. Georges Basin], which lies to the south and west of Jervis’s Bay. The shores of the inlet are generally low, and are either sandy or swampy. Near the lagoon, however, on the western side, there is forest land. The creek, through its whole extent, seems separated from the sea merely by a sandy flat of recent formation.
“The same afternoon we attempted to enter an opening to the north of a point of land, lying nearly east of the Pigeon House, and which described to us by the natives as the entrance of a river. We were glad, however, to return in safety, without affecting our purpose, after having the boat nearly filled in attempting to pass the bar. After this we proceeded direct to Bateman’s Bay, which we entered in the evening, and came to an anchor late at night under Snapper Island. Next day I proceeded up the River Clyde, in company with Lieutenant Johnston, its discoverer. The general appearance of the river agrees very well with his description. He was, however, surprised to find it quite salt, in situations where he had found, on his former visit, about a month before, excellent fresh water. (It was then very rainy weather.) At a short distance below what he calls the first rapid, the river was fresh, and most likely will continue so about that place at all seasons. At this place, however, the navigation ceases, and we could only proceed a few miles further in the boat at high water. Thus far the direction of the river is northerly, with an inclination to west: the fresh-water run, however, comes chiefly from the southward [This is a strange and inexplicable statement]. Throughout, the river winds in a beautiful manner among the hills, which slope gradually to the water’s edge. These hills are moderately wooded. The white gum (eucalyptus ) is the most prevalent. Generally the soil is rather barren, and is covered with low ferns, prickly shrubs, and a kind of dwarf palm, called burrawang by the natives (zamia spiralis). As we advance up the river, the alternate projecting points, on either side, consist of rich alluvial soil, but are of small extent. The general course, as I have said, of the river, or rather inlet, is northerly with an inclination to west, and it cease to be navigable about ten miles south of the hill called the Pigeon House. None of the supposed branches are of any moment, being merely salt-water inlets, which terminate at a short distance among mangroves. It is barely possible that some of them may have a small run of fresh water at their heads. Fresh water is scarce at the lower part of the river. Indeed we found only one small spring, and that was not only indifferent, but below high-water mark. The river itself is free from shoals, but is rendered comparatively useless, from a bank at the entrance, over which there is only ten feet of water. Snapper Island may afford shelter for a few small vessels.
“At the spot where the river ceases to be navigable, (accompanied by Mr. Hume and Thomas Davison) I took a journey of four days into the interior, with a view to examine the country. Generally we found it very hilly, consisting of steep ridges, divided by narrow valleys, so narrow indeed that they frequently ought rather be called ravines. They are, however, very rich, and generally well watered, overgrown with tall ferns (filices), fern trees (alsophilia australis) [Cyathea cooperi], palms (corypha australis [Livistona australis], and seaforthia elegans) and, stately mimosas, and magnificent flooded gums (eucalyptus ). The sides of the hills are too steep for the plough, but the soil is well adapted to the cultivation of the vine. We did not find a piece of good pasture, or what is called good forest land in the whole district.
“The geological character of the country is different from those parts of New South Wales I had formerly examined. The only rock consists of a kind of coarse argillaceous schistus, containing mica, of various appearances, resembling, at Snapper Island, imperfect clay-slate, but in most other places assuming the appearance of grey wacke. It lies in a vertical position, and the strata extend from south-west to north-east. I found that it equally traverses the bed of the river and the summit of lofty ridges, and contains innumerable veins of quartz of all dimensions. On travelling towards the westward, we found the ridges gradually to ascend, and at length the summits were topt with sand-stone. My visit did not admit of accurate observations; but so far as I was able to judge, these ridges seemed first to rise to a level of, and then to rest like abutments against, the table-land of Argyleshire. On descending, which we did by following the course of the ravine, we again found the old rock; but although it still followed the same line of bearing, its character appeared to change. It was hardened into compact clay-stone, and the veins were more twisted, as if it had been softened by the action of intense heat, and in many places the quartz assumed the form of agate or rock flint. Following the course of the ravine, it brought us to a small river ten or twelve miles west of the Pigeon House, in the bed of which we found masses resembling clay, porphyry, and jasper. This river led us to the foot of the Pigeon House, which we ascended. There is first a steep ridge, formed of the schistus already mentioned, but more abounding in mica - (indeed I found some specimens of almost pure mica slate). At the top of the ridge there is a lofty terrace of pudding-stone. The country upon this assumes the form of a table-land, and the soil is a poor clay, covered with stunted bushes. The cone of the Pigeon House rises upon this plain. It consists of horizontal sand-stone, and the dome, which crowns the whole, consists of an enormous mass of the same material. At the foot of the cone we found a run of water. Actual observation can alone determine the point, but I considered from appearances that we had here attained the level of Argyleshire. On descending from the Pigeon House, we again crossed the river I have before mentioned, now become a considerable stream, and flowing slowly to the eastward through a rich valley; but at this lace it seemed affected by the tides. From hence we regained the Clyde, and rejoined our vessel.
“On leaving Bateman’s Bay we proceeded with the vessel about twenty miles to the southward; and on our return attempted to enter an opening which is indicated on the chart about seven or eight miles southward of the bay. Here, however, was such a fall of tide, as rendered it at that time totally impracticable. We therefore landed outside on a point, and walked across, when we found the water extending along the hills in the shape of a salt lagoon. We passed a night at anchor under the small island at the entrance of Bateman’s Bay, which is capable of affording shelter to small vessels from easterly winds.
“The outer island of Bateman’s Bay is of the same formation as Snapper Island, consisting of an imperfect clay-slate of blue colour with white layers. These white layers are generally in a state of decomposition, but the blue part is highly indurated, and the strata are twisted in all directions; so that it is impossible to describe them. They appear as if they had been exposed to intense heat. The shores of the bay, on the contrary, consist of soft, red clay-stone, lying. as was said, in a vertical position, which gradually gets more indurated as we advance up the river, and at length assumes the form of grey-wacke slate.
“Our progress was delayed by southerly winds, and I had a better opportunity of examining the appearance of the coast on our return than before. We now succeeded in entering the mouth of the river which had crossed at the foot of the Pigeon-house. The banks are alluvial, beyond which there is some tolerable forest-land. We could only proceed upwards for about four or five miles, when our further progress was stopped by large trees lying across the bed of the river. Were these impediments removed, I think it would be navigable for boats to the foot of the mountain [Berry is totally confused in this].
“About four miles to the northward we entered another opening. Most of the prominent inlets along the coast are on the north side of rocky points. This, however, was on the south side of a point of whinstone. The entrance was very shallow; but at a distance of several miles found deep water surrounded by high land, showing us the process of filling up an ancient harbour.
“A few miles to the northward of Bateman’s Bay, the vertical strata disappear, and are succeeded by horizontal sand-stone, which continues with interruptions to Jervis’s Bay. Thes interruptions consist of long sandy branches and projecting points of whin. I landed on several places, under the shelter of those points, and walked for miles along the shore. I found the country uniformly fertile and well-watered, wherever the basis consisted of this rock. I was not inclined at the time to attribute this formation to a volcanic origin, even although I found plenty of pumice-stone lying upon the beach, because as this had evidently been thrown up by the water, it might have floated from New Zealand; but, on further reflection, I cannot help thinking that these points are of ignious [sic] formation, or rather that the matter of which they are formed has been projected from under the sand-stone in a liquid state.
“We again entered Jervis’s Bay, where we were detained several days by unfavourable winds, so that I had an opportunity of examining many parts of it. Although it receives no rivers, we found fresh water in abundance at the driest season of the year. On the north side, the soil is ow, sandy, or swampy, and in many other places indifferent. I found however good land, both forest and alluvial. The access to the bay is safe and easy; although it is not such a magnificent harbour as Port Jackson, still it affords good shelter and safe anchorage, and is superior to many of the most frequented ports in the world. The port of Cadiz, which has been renowned from the earliest ages, is not be compared to it; and in the progress of colonization, there is no doubt it will hereafter be the seat of an important new settlement.
“I shall now conclude with a few general observations, chiefly arising from the foregoing facts.
“1st. The extent of country, to which I have adverted, is bounded on the west, by a range of high land, generally at some distance from the sea-shore, which, however, advances to the very coast to the southward of Port Hacking, when it forms what is called the Five Island or Illawarra Mountain; but which, on reaching the northern bank of Shoal Haven River, again recedes to the westward.
“2d. This range bounds the waters or rivers which fall into the sea on the eastern coast.
“3d. These rivers do not flow direct to the coast, but a great part of their course is parallel with it, running to the north - witness the Clyde* [ Footnote - *The salt water inlet of the Clyde runs northerly, but the fresh water runs chiefly from the southward.], Pigeon-house, Nepean, and George’s River. Has this course any connexion with the extensive vertical strata which I found extending to the north-east at Bateman’s Bay, and which seems to form the basis of the country ?
“4th. The rivers seem progressively to increase in magnitude as we advance northerly; thus, Clyde, Pigeon-house, Shoal Haven, Nepean, Hunter’s River, and, I believe, the Hastings may be added to the climax* [And now the Brisbane. - EDITOR.]. George’s River, indeed, which is hemmed in by the Nepean, is less than Shoal Haven; but its course is also northerly.
“5th. A clay soil, having little attraction for moisture, is the general characteristic of this part of the country. The absence of springs depends upon the impermeable quality of the soil; and the scarcity of running water is caused equally by this, and by the shape of the country.
“6th. One of the most celebrated English agriculturalists has remarked that the softest fleeces are produced from sheep depasturing on a clay soil. This not only corresponds with the past experience of New Holland, but gives great hopes for the future.
“Much has been written about the geography of plants. Equal attention ought to be given to the soils which they delight to inhabit. This is not the place for such discussions. Still, as being intimately connected with my present subject, and so important, that there can be no successful cultivation of exportable commodities in this colony without attention to it, I cannot conclude without adverting to it.
“The plants produced on our clay soil contain generally little or no alkaline salt, perhaps because it does not exist in the soil. Tobacco abounds in alkaline salt. It is therefore proper for such soils, and, although the plant will vegetate in them, its quality must be inferior. The clay soil is equally unfitted for the vine, because the roots will penetrate to the aluminous schistus, which will either poison the plant, or communicate an inferior flavour to the grape. Again, the vine will grow luxuriantly in the mere alluvial soil, and the fruit will be large, but the juices watery. The truth of these remarks is beautifully exemplified by this country in a state of nature, where in the midst of iron-bound gum-tree forests, we meet with circumscribed spaces, in which plants of a different description are growing with tropical luxuriance.
“As this country is so peculiar, and has so many apparent disadvantages in the midst of some seeming advantages, it becomes our duty to improve the latter, and to obviate the former. It is therefore perhaps happy that its colonization has been deferred until the present time, when the sum of human knowledge, both moral and physical, is so extended, that these attempts may be made upon just and rational principles, the result of which may be expected to be very different from such as originate in mere experiment, or (what is still worse) from such as are the offspring of a false theory.”
Berry’s account of his expedition on foot up the Clyde is vague and somewhat contradictory in this published account, so we need to take a look at further source documents to establish what he achieved.
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