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The following extract is taken from Historical Records of New South Wales, Vol. III. - Hunter. 1786-1799., ed. F.M. Bladen, N.S.W. Government, 1895.
pp. 324-330.
“Thursday, 18th [January 1798]. - At 5 a.m. we left Western Port with a fresh wind at W. b. S., and ran along the shore eastward for Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory]. By 10 the fresh of wind had increased to a gale, and the sea, which we found running rather high when we came out, now began to be very troublesome. A long S.W. swell that set in upon the land made it cross and irregular. This long swell we had observed in going to the westward, when for several days before that time, and almost ever since, the winds had been northerly, and at times very strong. At noon heavy squalls, with rain, fed the gale.
“Friday, 19th. - At 3 p.m., we got the boat in upon a little beach under the weather shore of the west bight of Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory], the islands bearing E.S.E. 12 or 14 miles.
“Monday, 22nd. - At 5 a.m., the gale having broke up, and the sky become of a favorable appearance, we launched the boat and went over to the islands (lying on the west side of Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory]) [See also; regarding shipwrecked sailors].
At 10, after having variable light airs all the morning, it set in and blew strong at S.W. Seeing a kind of bend in one of the islands about a quarter of a mile from the main, which was a weather shore with this wind, we went in there and landed to collect a stock of petrels [Mutton Birds] for our homeward supply.
“Tuesday, 23rd. - P.M. : The S.-wester soon became a gale, but it was still good laying off the rocks under its lee. I therefore resolved upon staying the there all night, that we might be able to at once to procure what birds we could salt down, and then be ready for the first smooth day, and afterwards make the best of our way to the northward. At 1 a.m. the wind flew round to the south and blew stronger than before. The sea now rolled in between the island and the main , and our station was no longer tenable, so at daybreak we stood over towards the west side of the bight for the little beach we had last left, for there was too much surf going upon the beaches under Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory] to put the boat on shore unless in a case of extremity. At 8 laid the boat upon the beach on the west side, having passed through a sea that for the very few hours it had been blowing was incredibly high.
“Wednesday, 24th. - P.M. : The gale broke up at south as suddenly as it came on, and a strong breeze then set in at E.S.E. A.M. : Gales, E.S.E.
“Thursday, 25th. - P.M. : Hard gales, E.S.E. A.M. : More moderate, but still a wild unsettled appearance.
“Friday, 26th. - P.M. : It was almost calm, and the sky seemed to be getting more favourable therefore, at 4 we rowed over towards the island, and at 9 brought up under one of them for the night. By 11, the wind blowing up fresh at west, bore away round Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory].
“Saturday, 27th. - At 4 p.m. came to upon a beach on the east side of Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory], in order to wait for a favourable opportunity of examining Seal Island, to see if any commercial advantage might be expected of it. It appears to lie about 8 or 9 miles to the northward. A.M. : Wind N.E. Off the rocks I observed the latitude to be 38 degrees 50 minutes.
“Sunday, 28th. - P.M. : wind N.E. A.M. 10, having a light air off the land, we went out towards Seal Island. At noon our latitude was 38 degrees 43 minutes; the island bore N.E. b. N. 2 miles.
“Monday, 29th. - P.M. : 3, brought up under the Seal Island in a little bight where boats may lay when the wind has any southing in it. This island is the northernmost of four that lie about S.S.E. and N.N.W. of each other at about half a mile apart [The Seal Islands group consists of Seal Island, Notch Island, Cliffy Island, Rag island and White Rock], the north end of Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory] bearing N.W. b. N. It is about a mile and a half in circuit, and is of very moderate height, sloping up gradually to a hill in the middle. There is neither tree or shrub upon it, but a great deal of thick tufted grass, in which the seals have everywhere made paths and the petrels have burrowed [Mutton Birds]. The number of seals was by no means equal t what we had been led to expect. It is certain, however, that great numbers have been destroyed, and probably more frightened; but as the pups seem now to be nearly full-grown, many of the seals may have gone off to sea, as is their custom when the pupping-time is past.
“From the quantity I saw I have every reason to believe that a speculation upon a small scale might be carried on with advantage. There are seals more or less upon all the islands on both sides of Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory]; but as they are not so well formed for their landing as others they are less frequented by them. Any island to be a true seal island must have in some one part of it a landing-place of easy access on account of the pups.
At 5 a.m., the wind setting in from the E.N.E., with a foul and cloudy sky, we hastened to get in our stock of seals’ flesh, and then stood over for a little cove under the land. At 10 landed there. This cove, which from the use it may be to anyone coming here to seal will bear the name of Sealers’ Cove, * [Footnote - * This inlet, on the eastern side of Wilson’s Promontory, still bears this name.] is large enough for a small vessel to swing in, and of depth sufficient for any ship to ride in safety. It is shut from all but the winds from E.S.E. to E.N.E., and these, as we had afterwards occasion to see, throw no great swell into it. There is plenty of fresh water, and wood enough at hand to boil down any quantity of blubber they might procure. Its latitude is 38 degrees 50 minutes, and it bears from the northernmost seal island [Seal Island] S.W. 1/2 S.
“Tuesday, 30th. - Hard gales at E.N.E. The water in the cove keeps smooth. This gale gave me an opportunity of examining the surface of Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory].
Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory], or that land seen by Captain Furneaux in the latitude of 39 degrees 00 minutes, * [Footnote - * The latitude assigned by Furneaux to the land he saw lying to the N.N.E. of Furneaux’s Island is identical with that of Wilson’s Promontory, but the longitude in which he placed it is more than a degree in error. Wilson’s Promontory was so named by Governor Hunter, upon the suggestion of Flinders and Bass, in honour of Thomas Wilson, of London. - Flinders’s ‘Terra Australis,’ vol. i, p. cvx (note).] is a lofty hummocky promontory of hard granite, of about 20 miles in length, and varying from 6 or 7 to 12 or 14 miles in breadth. Its firmness and vast durability make it well worthy of being, what there is great reason to believe it is, the boundary point of a large strait [Bass Strait] and a corner-stone of this great island, New Holland. It is joined to the mainland by a low neck of sand [earlier in this Journal Bass had stated that it was an island], which is nearly divided by a lagoon that runs in on the west side of it [Shallow Inlet], and by a large shoal inlet on the east [Corner Inlet].
“Notwithstanding the height of this land is not such as would be by seamen reckoned at all remarkable, yet it appears strikingly so by being contrasted with the the low sandy land that joins to it, and by having no high land in its neighbourhood except a single ridge of mountains to the northward of from 12 to 18 miles in length, which, getting up at some considerable distance from the sea, comes down southing in a direction for Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory], and slopes away gradually to a termination, leaving about 12 or 16 miles of this sand and saltwater inlets between them.
“There is but little soil upon Furenaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory]; it is chiefly barren; the rocks are hidden indeed by brush and dwarf gums and other smaller vegetation, which gives a deceitful impression of fertility to the eye of a distant observer. The myrtle, so common about Sydney, grows not only here, but also in several places to the westward, much larger than it is ever seen to the northward. The brushes are generally formed of it entirely.
“The tide of flood runs along from the southward along the east side of Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory], and then sweeps to the westward round the end with considerable rapidity. The day on which we more particularly had occasion to observe it was the eight of the moon’s age, and then it ran fu 2 knots or more. The ebb tide sets principally off to the eastward. It rises on the east side of Sealer’s Cove 10 or 11 feet, and flows full, and changes about 10 o’clock.
“Whenever it shall be decided that the opening between this and Van Dieman’s Land [Tasmania] is a strait, this rapidity of tide, and that long S.W. swell that seems to be continually rolling in upon the coast to the westward, will then be accounted for. * [Footnote - * It is evident from this passage that Bass was not fully conscious of the great discovery he had made.]
“There are no natives on Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory], but the sandy neck is inhabited near the inlets.
“Friday, February 2nd. - P.M. : 2. The gale having broken up, and the wind coming to the westward, we coasted aong the east side of Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory], and at night came to within the entrance of a shoal inlet that we found to run in by the north end of it [Corner Inlet]. A.M. : Daylight. - We proceeded up the inlet which can be called little else than a large flat, for the greater part of it dries at low water. Off the mouth lies a long breaking shoal, on the west side of which is the channel. The deepest water will be found by keeping well over to the south shore, and when within the entrance close by the rocky points on that side, but there is nowhere more than 2 or 2 1/2 fathoms at low water, except in holes off these points, where the tide sets by strong. A vessel that could lay in this draught of water might be completely landlocked on the south side under Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory], from off which there are two or three large runs of most excellent water. The tide here rises 8 or 9 feet, and what is remarkable, flows full and changes a full hour later than it does in Sealer’s Cove, notwithstanding the flood comes from the northward. I was at a loss to account for this circumstance until I became acquainted with the lay of the coast to the eastward and northward of the inlet, when it appeared to be owing to its being situated in the bottom of a bight, across and not directly into which the grand shoot of the flood passes in its way from the long beach [Ninety Mile Beach] down upon Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory]. As a general remark, I would observe that the flood tide, after ranging along from the eastward by the side of the long beach [Ninety Mile Beach], leaves it at that part where the beach ceases to trend in a N.E. and S.W. direction, and from thence, keeping the course it has received by the N.E. and S.E. lay of the land it last struck against, strikes off for the Seal Islands and the south-easternmost part of Furneaux’s Land [Wilsons Promontory].
“Friday, 9th. - A.M. : The wind at last came from the westward. We went out of the inlet and steered along shore abot E.N.E., with the wind strong at S.W. At the distance of 5 miles we passed the mouth of an inlet out of which a strong tide was setting. It had the appearance of being of the same shoal kind as that we were come come out of [the eatern channel of Corner Inlet]. We were too short of provisions to go up it and risque the loss of the wind we had for several days been anxiously waiting for. A large half-moon shoal stretches to the N.E. from it, full 2 1/2 or 3 miles, over which the ebb out of the inlet sets very strong. Four or five miles farther eastward we passed the mouth of a very shoal lagoon, and by noon, when our latitude was 38 degrees 34 minutes, we had come to the part of the beach [Ninety Mile Beach] from which we had struck off upon coming down, and had steered for the high land that we afterwards found to be Furneaux’s [Wilsons Promontory]. These inlets and lagoon were the bights we then observed, but did not examine.
“Saturday, 10th. - P.M. : We steered along the beach [Ninety Mile Beach] about N.E., with a fresh gale at S.W. b. W., and a heavy following sea. At sunset it became more moderate. At 9 we hauled out E.N.E., for I judged we must then have nearly ran down that part of the beach that lies N.E. and S.W. At 1 a.m. the moon got up, but being too much obscured by clouds to give a continuance of light sufficient for us to stand down upon the land with safety, we kept on till 2.30, and then bore away E.N.E. At daybreak the beach was distant 2 miles. It trended E.N.E. and W.S.W., and, upon recollecting this part of the shore, I found that we had after we hauled out ran along about 10 miles of it lying in the same direction. The wind having died away gradually, a short interval of calm succeeded. At 10 it set in strong from from the E.N.E. As we had no part to bear up for nearer than the inlets, and the boat was in no condition for keeping the sea with a foul wind, I thought it most proper, although there was a heavy surf going upon the shore, to hazard her taking the beach; accordingly, having tripped her off and on until noon, in order to get the latitude, which was 37 degrees 47 minutes, we pushed in through the surf and landed her sagely.
“Sunday, 11th. - The country at the back of this place is nothing but dried up swamps and barren sandhills. Some natives came to us with very little hesitation, the usual signs of friendship being offered and accepted on each side. By their manner we concluded they had never seen white people before, or ever heard of them. In the evening the wind, at E.N.E., died away.
A.M. : At 2 the wind and clouds came away strong from the S.W., and seemed to threaten us with a gale. As with this wind the surf must very speedily rise so much that it would be impossible for us to leave the beach until some time after the gale was over, we determined to try if the boat could get through it. There was no time to be lost; therefore we immediately dragged the boat down to the water’s edge, got everything into her, and as soon as we had light enough to see what we were about, launched her into it, and succeeded in getting her out; then bore away to the northward. At noon the Ram Head [Little Rame Head] was just come in sight.
“Monday, 12th. - P.M. : At 4 went into the bight at the Ram Head, to endeavour at the recovery of our anchor, supposing the sand thrown in by the gale which buried it might by this time have worked out again. A.M. : Looked for it, but in vain; wind E.N.E.
Thursday, 15th. - P.M. : At 4, the easterly winds being done, a strong breeze set in suddenly at S.W. We immediately stood to the northward with it. At 10 passed Cape Howe. A.M. : At noon we were at the mouth of the bay we had sailed round on the 19th December, and found the latitude to be 36 degrees 53 minutes. * [Footnote - * Twofold Bay. The correct latitude is 37 degrees 5 minutes. Ante, p. 319.] Stood into the bay.
Firday, 16th. - At 1 p.m. landed in the upper part of the bay. I employed myself until sunset in examining the country round, and had the mortification to find that the same sterility we had almost everywhere witnessed upon the coast still attended it.
“The figure of the land, especially on the N.W. and west sides, is hilly hummocks. The hills are stony; the sides of the gullies between them and some little low land at their foot is well covered with soil, in patches, at the expense of the higher ground. The natural productions are the general ones of the country. The nautical advantages of this bay, notwithstanding the anchorage is but small, seem to be superior to any we have been in. It may be known by a red point [Red Point] on the south side of the peculiar blueish hue of a drunkard’s nose. Mount Dromedary bears north-easterly about 8 or 10 leagues.
“I had taken a sketch of the bay as we sailed it round on our way to the southward; therefore, as there was little else to be done and our stock of provisions was now become very short, it was absolutely necessary to use every moment of fair wind. At sunset we bore away to the northward with the strong breeze that yet continued at S.W. At 1 a.m. Mount Dromedary bore west 6 or 7 miles. Squally and heavy sea. At 10 passed Bateman Bay, and about noon landed upon the small island [Brush Island] 7 or 8 miles to the northward of it, where we had observed a pole. like a flagstaff, on the 14th December.
“Saturday, 17th. - P.M. : The pole proved to be a dead stump of a tree, but much taller and straighter than any now growing there. The island, however, is too near to the main, and too much frequented by natives for any shipwrecked persons to have remained long upon it.
“The wind having crawled round so far to the eastward that we could not weather the outermost part of the land to the northward, we stayed here the night. At 8 a.m., a sea-breeze setting in at S.E., we stood on to the northward. At noon our latitude was 35 degrees 14 minutes, the Pidgeon House [Pigeon House] bearing W. by S.
“Sunday, 18th. - At 1 p.m., the wind shifted so far to the eastward that we could not lay along the land, we stood into Jervis Bay.
“Monaday 19th. - P.M. and a.m. : Wind strong at N.N.E.
“Tuesday, 20th. - P.M. : N.N.W. A.M. : At 3, the wind being down, we got out and rowed to the northward. At 8, off Cape St. George [Lamond Head], we caught a breeze at N.N.E., with which and the oars we made shift by noon to fetch into Shoals Haven [Crookhaven].
“Friday, 23rd. - A.M. “ At 8, the wind coming round to south, we sailed. At 9 passed Long Nose Point [Beecroft Head]. * [Footnote - * See Bass’s memorandum, post, p. 332, in which he corrects this and the proceeding day’s entry.] Noon : No observation.
“Saturday, 24th. - P.M. : At 6, Hat Hill [Mount Kembla] bore west. At 9 it fell calm. A.M. : At 8 we got into Port Hacking, after a most fatiguing night’s rowing. The wind light at N.N.E.
“Sunday, 25th. - P.M. : The wind burst out at south and blew violently. We immediately sailed. Off Botany Bay it fell calm all at once, and then a light air sprung up at E.N.E. The people seeming inclined to push for home rather than go up to the Frenchman’s Garden, we got upon the oars and rowed up to Port Jackson by 10, when we entered the Heads. * [Footnote - * Hughes, in his ‘Australian Colonies,’ states (p. 29) that the whaleboat in which Bass made this voyage was long preserved as a curiosity, and that snuff-boxes and other articles made out of its keel were considered of peculiar value.]”
Frenchman’s Garden:
Sir Ernest Scott, in The Life of Matthew Flinders, R.N., Angus and Robertson, Sydney, 1914, gives the following explanation of the name:
“It was the practice of Laparouse [La Perouse] to sow seeds at places visited by his ships, with the object of experimenting with useful European plants that might be cultivated in other parts of the world. His own letters and journal do not show that he did so at Botany Bay; but we have other evidence that he did, and that the signs of cultivation had not vanished at least ten years later..... The Frenchman’s Garden must have been somewhere within the enclosed area where the Cable Station now stands, and it would be well if so pleasant a name, and one so full of historical suggestion, were still applied to that reserve.”
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