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The following extracts are taken from Commander L.S. Dawson’s Memoirs of Hydrography including Brief Biographies of the Principal Officers who have served in H.M. Naval Surveying Service between the years 1750 and 1885, Part I. - 1750 to 1830, Henry W. Keay, Eastbourne, 1885, and give a good introduction to Grant’s voyage.
pp. 35-36.
“LIEUTENANT JAMES GRANT R.N.,
“1800-02
“The voyage of discovery of this officer, apparently undertaken with less than the usual amount of high patronage, has, in consequence, been greatly overlooked; it was singular in more respects than one. Captain Schank R.N., seems to have been in about the year 1800, a strong advocate for building small vessels, in watertight compartments, and with sliding keels or centre-boards. Under his direction, the Lady Nelson, of 60 tons, was ordered to be so fitted, and the ultimate service allotted to her, was that of exploring the sea limits of the territory of New South Wales. A survey of the coast we are told was intended, with a journal of all occurrences, natural history, nature of soil, &c. The Lady Nelson had been converted from a cutter to a brig, and provided with three centre-boards. Lieutenant Grant, who evidently from the narrative he afterwards published, had great faith in what was at that time looked upon as a decided innovation in the art of shipbuilding, was appointed to the command, and sailed from Portsmouth, March 17th, 1800. Many unpleasant criticisms were bestowed, and comments of a discouraging nature ventured, upon the notion, of a small vessel, of such novel construction, undertaking so long and hazardous a voyage. The general appellation assigned to the craft before quitting England was that of H.M.S. Tinder-box. It was with difficulty Lieutenant Grant kept his crew on board, mainly on account of these disparagements.
“The Lady Nelson duly arrived at Porto Praya, and the Cape of Good Hope, where she was for some time detained.
“On the 7th of October, leaving Simons bay, the commander had such faith in his vessel, that he chose what was considered a high latitude for the run to Australia, reaching Sydney after a passage of 71 days, having reached as far south as thirty nine degrees, forty four minutes, and being the first vessel from Europe to sail through Bass’s strait, discovered a short time previously by Dr. Bass the surgeon of the Reliance. At Sydney, the Lady Nelson was paid off, and lieutenant Grant appointed to the command of the armed ship Supply; but that vessel proving unseaworthy, he again resumed his first charge, and on March 6th, 1801, left Sydney, with the Bee (a decked launch) as tender, under orders from the governor, Captain P.G. King R.N., to make a thorough survey examination of Bass’s strait. The Bee failing as a sea-boat, soon returned to Sydney, and the Lady Nelson continued alone.
“Mr. Cayley, a botanist, who had been sent out from England by Sir Joseph Banks, accompanied Lieutenant Grant, who also had with him, Mr. J. Murray, a mate R.N., who subsequently commanded the Lady Nelson when the discovery of Port Phillip was made, and also when as a tender, that vessel was employed under Commander Flinders in the Investigator. Ensign Bareillier [Barrallier] the surveyor of the colony made one of the expedition. Jervis bay was examined, and many interesting observations recorded as to the natives, their habits, &c. Continuing to the southward, the northern coast of Bass’s strait was explored, from Wilson’s Promontory to Western point, a distance of 70 miles; after which, Botany Bay, to the southward of Sydney, was returned to. Having taken on board Lieutenant Governor Colonel Paterson (after whom the river Paterson is called), in company with with the schooner Frances, the Hunter river was explored, and coal being found in considerable quantity, the Frances shortly afterwards sailed for Sydney with forty tons of that commodity on board. Mr. Lewin a draughtsman now joined the party, and proved of material assistance, in illustrating the surveys made, of the Hunter river and port Stephens. The Lady Nelson returned to Sydney July 25th, 1801, and Lieutenant Grant sailed November 9th of the same year in the brig Anna Josepha, laden with coal and timber, by way of Cape Horn and Falkland Islands, for the Cape of Good Hope. After a wild passage, during which, the crazy vessel was becalmed for six weeks in the vicinity of Tristan d’ Acunha, Table bay was arrived at April 1st, 1802, and shortly afterwards Lieutenant Grant embarked for England in H.M.S. Imperieuse. The first coal brought from Australia in the Anna Josepha, realised 36 rix dollars a tone, at the Cape.
“Of the newly discovered places, head-lands, and islands, examined by Grant during this voyage, but few have retained the names he assigned to them; of these, however, are Jervis bay, Cape Otway, Marsh’s islands, Seal islands and Snapper island.
“A chart of the North and West parts of Bass’s strait and South Coast of Australia appears in the published account of this voyage, and an engraving of the Lady Nelson in the river Thames before starting, is a curiosity in itself. That no lives were lost, nor even a spar strained throughout, says much in favour of the accuracy of Lieutenant Grant’s judgment in bestowing the confidence he did in the Lady Nelson, and the peculiar style of her build.”
p. 39.
“LIEUTENANT JOHN MURRAY.
“1802-08.
“The above officer assisted Captain Flinders in the surveys made in the Investigator upon the eastern coast of Australia; returning to Port Jackson before him in the tender Lady Nelson, he discovered and named Port Phillip, after the first governor of New South Wales.
“After returning to England, his name is found as the maritime surveyor of several parts of the home coasts; amongst his charts were,
“The coast of Sussex, Winchelsea to E. end of Owers, 1804. Newhaven, 1805, New Shoreham to Selsea bill 1807. Track of the Lady Nelson along E.C. of Australia in company with the Investigator, 1802. Port Phillip, 1802. Part of the E. coast of New South Wales, with tracks of Captain Cook and Furneaux.”
The following extract from the account of the Voyage of the Lady Nelson [view image], by Lieutenant James Grant is taken from Historical Records of New South Wales, Vol. IV. - Hunter and King. 1800, 1801, 1802., ed. F.M. Bladen, N.S.W. Government, 1896.
pp. 477-481.
“Sunday, 8 March, 1801. - Latitude 33 degrees 27 minutes. Bearings and distance at noon, North Head, Port Jackson, N.W. by N., distance 4 or 5 leagues. P.M., moderate and pleasant weather. At 5 a.m. sailed, Bee [John Lewin’s decked longboat] in company, and stood to the southward. Made the Bee’s signal to come within hail.
“Monday, 9 March, 1801. - Latitude 34 degrees 55 minutes. Bearings and distance at noon, George’s Head * [Footnote - * Probably Cape St. George.] S.W. by S., distance 6 leagues. P.M., moderate and fine weather, Bee in company; at 7 p.m. Red Point S.W. by S., distance 16 or 18 miles; at 10 wind veered to N.N.W. and blew fresh. Intending to look into Port Jarvis [Jervis Bay] in the morning, I shortened sail, and at 2 a.m. hove too. At 1/2 p’t 4 wind shifted suddenly to the southward; filled; close-reef’d the topsails, and sent down topg’t yards and masts, wind freshening. At 6 a.m. perceived the Bee had hove too; made her signal to make sail, bore down to her, and found her laying too under her trysail, reef’d mainsail and dragsail ahead. In consequence of the reports made me by the master, I ordered him to return to Port Jackson, the vessel not being able to keep in company or make any good weather.
“Tuesday, 10 March, 1801. - P.M., moderate and hazy weather with a heavy swell. At 4 p.m. St. George’s Head bear’g W.S.W., distance 10 leagues. At 6 do. W.S.W/, distance 9 or 10 miles. At 8 gloomy weather with a heavy swell, the wind at S.S.E.; tacked occasionally. In the morning clear weather, the wind at S.W. At 5 a.m. St. George’s Head west 8 or 9 miles; being desirous of examining what shelter Jarvis’s Bay [Jervis Bay] sfforded, I worked into it, hoisted the boats out, and sent the chief officer to look out for a proper place to anchor; at 9 a.m. the boat returned, and one of the natives in her. The officer informed me there was good anchorage in the southernmost cove between the islands [Bowen Island] which lays in the mouth of the harbour and the main. Worked to windward and came too at 1/2 p’t 10 a.m. with the best bower in 4 f’ms water, fine sand, and moored with the kedge. Great numbers of the natives now came round to us in their canoes some we allowed to come on board. They seem a harmless, inoffensive people, but much more robust than those about Sydney. They all wish to get their beards cut off. They did not thoroughly understand Yeranabie, the native I have on board. Mr. Barrallier and I went on shore with boat, armed, in order to catch some fish and see how they would receive us, taking Yeranabie with us, who, when he got on shore, shewed evident marks of fear, although one of them, an elderly man, made him a present of a waddee. On my enquiring into the cause of his alarm, he told me they would kill him and eat him I therefore sent him on board in the boat directly. We hauled the seine, which the natives voluntarily assisted us in doing very cheerfully, and seemed surprised to see the fish we caught, which were but few though excellent of their kind, being arge whiting. As the inhabitants seemed to have a great desire for some of the fish we distributed the whole among them, excepting three I reserved for ourselves; they seemed much pleased, and danced and shouted by turns round us. There was now a great number about us, but what appeared to me strange there was none of them had any arms with them of any kind. They seemed to know the use of the musquet, and appeared frightened at it when pointed. They asked for blankets and bread, and made signs for something to put round their heads, which last article I gave them, and which I made out of an old white shirt torn up in strips like bands, tying the same round their foreheads, with which they seemed much pleased. They expressed much surprise at the looking-glass [mirror], searching everywhere to find if there was not someone at the back of it, dancing before it and putting themselves in all the attitudes they could. They are entirely naked, and seemed to pay homage to the oldest, there being amongst them a very elderly, stout man, his hair perfectly grey, whose advice they seemed to follow. Ends in moderate and clear weather.
“Wednesday, 11 March, 1801. - P.M., the wind still continued at S.S.W. and S. I sent the people to haul the seine in the evening further up the bay, but they had little success, owing, I presume, to the sharks which abound here. I went on shore with Mr. Barrallier, Mr. Cayley, and two of the soldiers, all armed. We penetrated a little way into the woods, found them very thick and the grass high, the trees also lofty, with plenty of what is called she-oak. We found parrots of different kinds, and black cockatoos. As the evening approached we joined the boats who had gone a fishing; they had their net broken in several places by sharks, two of which they had got on shore; one measured 7 feet; we brought on board his liver for oil. It was now calm, which lasted until morning. Being anxious to see a little into the country, I set the people to cut a boatload of wood and fill up our water, all which they could do in sight of the ship, while Mr. Barrallier, Cayley, and the two soldiers set out to see what we could find worthy of remark; we walked 7 or 8 miles into the interior; found the soil of a very sandy nature; towards the sea it was sterile, without trees, and swampy ground in the hollows; the earth in these swamps was black, and exactly resembled the earth burned in Scotland called peat. The heights are barren and rocky. On one of these I found a flower, which Mr. Cayley informed me he had never met with before, and believed it to be a new plant it was small, but several specimens of it were taken. Mr. Barrallier also picked up a plant which had not been before met with [Plants of the area]. We directed our course again towards the wood, and walked through much thick cover, but saw no kangaroos. We met with two small lagoons [Lake McKenzie and Lake Windemere] and plenty of small streams running through the thickest part of the woods; saw some black cockatoos, also plenty of parrots, and other small birds common about Sydney. As we approached towards the ship we found a place which had evident marks of being frequented by the natives for the purpose of festivity. It was on a rising ground clear from brush, and no kennel (or habitation of theirs) near it; there were numerous bones of kangaroos, seals, fish, &c., scattered on the ground, and amongst others Mr. Barrallier picked up part of a human skull; it consisted of a part of the os frontis [the forehead part of the skull], with the cavities of the eyes and part of the bones of the nose still attached to it; a little apart from the spot where he picked up the above up he also found a piece of the upper jaw, with one of the molars or back teeth attached to it; also one of the vertebrae of the back with evident marks of fire on it all the others were free from any such marks. On this spot we counted where there had been fifteen different fires, the grass much beaten down and trod on; several seemed fresher than others from this circumstance I presume they visit this spot occasionally. I brought the human bones on board with me, and finding two of the natives on board I called Yeranabie, and shewing him the scull [sic] part desired him to ask if that was the part of a white man, and if they had eat him. Yeranabie interpreted that it was a white man that had come in a small boat or canoe, and that they had eat him, adding afterwards that he had come from some ship which he had said had broke down - been lost to the southward. The natives did not seem alarmed or intimidated at our questions, but pointed to the southward and the harbour’s mouth, answering very freely and without reserve. One of the people also who understands pretty well the language of the natives about Sydney agreed in the account Yeranabie had given, and more than once questioned them about it, especially in regard to the colour of the person. This, however, may be thrown a great light on when the bones are submitted to the faculty. * [Footnote - * Lieut. Grant states in his published work that these bones were forwarded to England to ‘W.L. Thomas, Esq’re, a surgeon and anatomist of the first respectability,’ who, however, was unable to throw any light on the question.] It now blew strong from N.E. with considerable swell even here. We got on board a boatload of excellent wood, which the natives assisted in carrying into the boat, from whence it was sent very cheerfully and of their own accords. It still blowing very fresh from N.E., let go the small bower under foot. Ends in ditto weather.
“Thursday, 12 March, 1801. - At 5 a.m. warped the ship further out into a clear berth for getting under weigh. As there was little prospect of getting out I went on shore with Mr. Barrallier and the usual escort to survey the cove we were in, which we completed. Saw a large native dog, of which I believe there there are many, as several had been seen at different times. When about to return on board several natives came to us and shewed great inclination to go off with us, also asking for bread and signifying that they were hungary [sic]. I ordered the surveying instruments and arms into the boat while I was busy observing some peculiarities about the natives. I went on board; it again blew strong from N.E. and E.N.E., which made it out of our power to start until the wind abated.
“Friday, 13 March, 1801. - P.M., having dined I wished much to survey the western side of the is’d [Bowen Island] which lays in the mouth of this harbour, and shelters the cove from easterly winds, which for the sake of distinction I called Ann’s Island. * [Footnote - * So named in honour of Mrs. King, the Governor’s Wife. Grant, in his published account of this voyage, states that he called this island Ann’s Island because it had not received any name from its former visitors. In this he was wrong. As early as December, 1797, Bass, when on his whaleboat voyage, alluded to it as Bowen’s Island, a name it still bears, in honour of the discoverer of Jervis Bay (Lieutenant Bowen).] I found missing the surveying chain, and on strict investigation found it had been left on shore through the neglect of the two soldiers whose hand it was always during the first part of the day, they being employed in carrying it to measure the distances. I sent a boat with one of them in her to look for it, but without success. On their return they were met by one of the natives in his canoe, holding up the chain in his hand, which he gave to them directly and came on board with the boat. Finding the chain complete, except the brass markers, which they had pulled off and kept, but which could be easily replaced, I rewarded the native with one of my blankets, which I believe was the greatest reward I could have bestowed on him, as he seemed infinitely well pleaded. Mr. Murray, the first mate, gave him an old hat and shewed him the looking-glass [mirror], before which he danced in his new accoutrements with great glee, searching for somebody behind it and making many odd gestures. We went on shore and took the native with us in the boat, towing his canoe after us. A number had assembled on the island [Bowen Island] to receive us, and seemed much pleased to find the other had got a blanket, which they seemed perfectly well to know the use of. The elderly man before mentioned came up to me and made signs that he wanted his beard cut off, which I did with a pair of scissars [sic]. For the first time we saw their women, at a distance, with their children, which the old man made come nearer and sit down. I observed one of them had fastened to the neck of her child one of the brass markers they had taken from the chain, of which, however, I judged it prudent to take no notice. They seemed to be very timorous of our approach, but on the old man’s speaking to them they all composedly sat down again. When I went up them they examined my buttons and the head of my dirk, and seemed much surprized at my watch-chain, which I began to think they had a sort of inclination for, but this I was soon relieved from on pulling out the watch. They did not seem to like it, and talked very gravely among themselves; they were all anxious to listen to the noise of the watch, yet would they pull their ear from it and look at the watch with symptoms of fear about them, and return to it again. I attempted to point out the use of it, and pointed at the sun, but from this circumstance I am led to think they believed it to be something that we worshipped. The old man particularly pointed to the sun and appeared anxious to know more of it. What leads me to imagine these were their ideas, everything else they saw of ours, after examining it a little, they broke out into a shout or exclamation expressive of wonder, and returned to examine it more minutely, but in the business of the watch they behaved very differently; they made no exclamations and talked much in a lower tone of voice than usual among themselves. at the same time expressing a sort of fear which they did not show towards anything else. The women, like the men, are more robust than those about Sydney. One of the women was particularly stout. All we saw had children; and many, both men and women, had evident marks of the smallpox, and knew when I pointed to one of my people whose face was much marked what I meant, expressing it was the same disorder had marked them. The women are very ordinary in features; the men in general are otherwise, and very strait [sic] made. Having finished the survey of Ann’s Island [Bowen Island] on the western side, and found there was plenty of fresh water on it, we returned on board and got all clear for getting under weigh at daylight. A.M., at 5, weighed, light airs and v’ble; at 9 got the boat ahead to tow, and at 10 got clear out; at 11 a moderate breeze from N.E.; set steering sails. It may be worthy of remark that Jarvis’s Bay [Jervis Bay] or Sound is much larger and more commodious than strangers are aware of, and that shelter may be had in it from all winds. The Sound itself is capable of containing two hundred sail of shipping and upwards, with plenty of wood and water at hand. During our excursions here we saw no snakes, and observed that many of the men, instead of having one tooth pulled out, as about Sydney, had two, and those in front. They are tatowed [tattooed] and paint their noses and faces, as at Sydney.
“Saturday, 14 March, 1801. - Latitude, 30 degrees 54 minutes S. P.M., moderate and pleasant weather; all sail set. At 2 p.m. saw the Pidgeon House [Pigeon House], bearing W.N.W’t, dist’e 7 or 8 leagues. A.M., moderate weather with heavy due. At daylight thick foggy weather. At 9 a.m. Mount Dromedary N.N.W’t. distance 8 or 9 leagues.
“Sunday, 15 March, 1801. - Latitude 37 degrees 13 minutes So. At noon moderate and fair weather. Bearings and distance, Green Point W. 1/2 S., 3 or 4 miles; and Cape How [Cape Howe] S.S.W., 4 or 5 leagues, the wind inclining to the south’d. I wished much to look into Twofold Bay, but being to the southward I judged it most prudent to persevere in order to get round Cape Howe, even though the weather appeared unfavourable. The moon also having changed yesterday, I had reason to expect blowing weather.”
A review of Lieutenant Grant’s Narrative of a Voyage of Discovery, performed in His Majesty’s Vessel, the LADY NELSON, of SIXTY Tons Burthen, with Slding Keels, in the Years 1800, 1801, and 1802, to NEW SOUTH WALES was printed in the ‘Account of Books’ section of The Asiatic Annual Register, or, A View of the History of Hindustan, and of the Politics, Commerce and Literature of Asia, for the Tear 1803, Cadell & Davies, and Blacks & Parry, London, 1804, which gave the following description:
pp. 10-12.
“On this second voyage, the Lady Nelson sailed on the 6th of March, from Sydney Cove, in company with the Bee sloop, a decked boat of 14, or 15 tons, fitted up by order of the governor to assist, under the command of liet. Grant, in this expedition; but the Lady Nelson is obliged to proceed without her, three days after, finding her unable to resist the sea and weather. At 4 P.M. on the 10th, the north head of Jarvis’s bay [Jervis Bay] bore W.S.W. eight or nine miles distant; and the weather clearing, the Lady Nelson worked into the bay, or rather sound; find good anchorage in the southernmost cove, between an island and the main, the former sheltering a very extensive harbour, lying between the two heads of it, thereby breaking off the heavy swell, which would otherwise make a very unsafe riding, At half past four came to an anchor in about four fathoms water, and a fine sandy bottom, having previously run over a flat of about four cables’ length, easily discernible from the change in the colour of the water, and from two and a half to three fathom deep.
“Canoes with natives come on board. Their interviews with Eurabanie [Yeranabie] and his wife. Surprized at every thing they see. Singular method of managing their canoes, by sometimes using an oval piece of bark, at others paddling with their hands, and making the canoe glide with extreme swiftness either way. The natives paint with a red gum when they go to fight, and describe a sort of circle round their eyes with a whitish clay, in token of mourning for a deceased friend. The women usually paint their noses red, and their breasts in alternate streaks of red and white.
“A party employed to haul the seine, are surrounded by natives, who approach them without any symptoms of fear, and assist, without being solicited, in hauling the seine. Having caught some very large whitings, they are distributed among the natives, whose numbers increase to an alarming extent, but as they amuse themselves by dancing and shouting, all fear of hostilities ceased. They are all naked, excepting one young fellow, who had a bunch of grass fastened round his waist, which came up behind, like the tail of a kangaroo. He was very active, and threw himself into a thousand antic forms; but whether spontaneously, or otherwise, does not appear.
“The party next proceed in search of kangaroos, and take a native for their guide. In the woods they meet various birds of very beautiful plumage, one of which being fired at, the guide is terrified, and runs away. There are abundance of quails, or New Holland partridges; great plenty of forest trees, chiefly what is denominated, about Sydney, she-oak.
“Several birds are dressed and eaten of excellent flavour. The parrot, whose plumage is surprisingly beautiful, resembles our pigeon in taste. there were many perfectly black cockatoos, excepting the breast, and a few feathers in the wings of yellow [Yellow Tailed Black Cockatoo]; these birds are extremely shy.
“On the second expedition, about eight miles inland, they fall in with a very pleasant spot of ground, which from the remains of numerous fires, and various fish bones, they conjecture to be a place of festivity. They also find some human bones, which they collect and take on board ship with them; they prove to have belonged to a poor white man, who had some time before been wrecked in a boat off the shore, and eaten by the inhabitants. This latter propensity is so strongly corroborated by various facts, there can be no doubt of the natives being cannibals. The soil, variously, fertile and sandy; towards the sea sterile. The valleys are swampy, and contain an earth resembling the peat in Scotland, fine running streams, and good water.
“The people here appear to be of two distinct classes, bush natives, and sea-side residents; the former are the eaters of human flesh, and dispatch their victims in the following manner : They strike them in the pole of the neck with a waddie, or club; after which, with the womara [woomera], or an instrument they throw the spear with, being armed with a shell at one end, they make an incision from the throat down the breast to the lower part of the belly, and another across the chest.
“Many of the natives have marks resembling indentures left on the body by the small-pox, but whether from the same disease is not quite certain: if so, it may, probably, have been introduced by Capt. Cook, or some former navigator. [Cook did not land on this part of the coast]
“On the 13th, five A.M. the Lady Nelson weighs anchor. The Bay, or Sound, is large and commodious, easy of access, affording shelter from all winds, and having room for upwards of two hundred ships, with plenty of wood and water. This Bay, when better known, will be found eligible for vessels bound for Port Jackson, after a long passage from England, and will be the means of saving many lives, as well as much wear and tear.”
Another review of Grant’s book was published in The Eclectic Review, Vol. I, Part II. From July to Decmber, 1805, Inclusive, C. Taylor, London, 1805, in which the following is given:
pp. 730-731.
“It seems that the original destination of this small vessel [The Lady Nelson] was for the service of the colony; and that she was designed to have been employed in surveying the whole coast of New South Wales, including the Gulph [Gulf] of Carpentaria on the Northern shore of New Holland. That object would have suited the approaching season of winter, better than the survey of a port in Bass’s Strait, on which she was ordered soon after the arrival of the Margaret. Mr. Grant left Port Jackson 6 March, 1801, in the Lady Nelson, accompanied by Ensign Bareillier [Barrallier] of the New South Wales Corps, who was appointed to make the survey; and by Mr. Cayley, a Botanist. They put in, 10 March, to Jervis’s Bay [Jervis Bay], 30 leagues south of Port Jackson, which had been discovered in 1791, and had frequently been visited by the transports and whale ships. During a stay of three days, they had amicable intercourse with the natives, who spoke a dialect of the same language that is in use near Port Jackson. They seem to possess a considerable degree of ingenuity: having contrived to separate the links of a measuring chain, in order to take off the brass rings; and to re-unite its parts, before they restored it to Mr. Grant. They were thought to be more robust than their Northern neighbours. In the short acquaintance which Mr. Grant had with them, he found reason to conclude they were cannibals. This practice appears also to be common to the Bush tribe, which inhabits the interior country near Port Jackson, and lives chiefly by hunting. Indeed, notwithstanding the reluctance of modern philosophers to accredit the fact, scarcely any savage nation has been discovered, in which traces of this horrid custom are not to be found; but in some instances, it was not detected till after a residence of several months among them. The murder of infants, also, seems to be as common in New South Wales as at Otaheite [Tahiti]. Such is man liable to become, without the knowledge, or without the belief, of divine revelation !”
In 1915 Ida Lee wrote The Log Books of the Lady Nelson with the Journal of Her First Commander Lieutenant James Grant, R.N., Grafton & Co., London, 1915, and the following is an extract (from Chapter 2):
“THE LADY NELSON RETURNS TO EXPLORE BASS STRAIT; VISITS JERVIS BAY AND WESTERN PORT.
“Governor King, in addition to ordering Grant to return and survey the deep bay which he had passed in Bass Strait between Cape Sir William Grant and Wilson’s Promontory, instructed him to ascertain the correct latitude of the promontory and the islands lying off it. He was also told to survey King Island, then to sail to King George’s Sound and, in returning to Wilson’s Promontory, to make a general survey of the whole of the south coast, going to the head of every inlet as far as possible. Dr. Bass, when discovering Bass Strait, had rounded the promontory and entered a harbour which, as Grant has told us, he named from its relative situation - Western Port. In his journal Grant says that it was reserved for the Lady Nelson to ascertain accurately the extent of Bass Strait, but he did not carry out the whole of King’s instructions on this second voyage although his examinations of Jervis Bay and of Western Port proved of great value and added much to the knowledge of both harbours.
“Besides Ensign Barrallier, Mr. Cayley, botanist, four soldiers of the New South Wales Corps and two natives (Euranabie and his wife Worogan) went with with the expedition, and Mr. John Murray joined the ship as first mate. * [Footnote - * Formerly Master’s Mate on board H.M.S. Porpoise.] The Bee, of 15 tons, formerly a ship’s launch, was also fitted to accompany her.
“The two ships left Port Jackson on March 8th, Lieutenant Grant particularly wishing to make the examination of Jervis Bay * [Footnote - * Jervis Bay, named in honour of John Jervis, Lord St. Vincent, was discovered by Lieutenant Richard Bowen in 1791.] on his way southwards in order ‘to secure a harbour’ if obliged to run out of Bass Strait. The Bee, however, id not stay long with the Lady Nelson. On the morning of the 9th the Master hove to and informed Grant that he had shipped much water and that the sea was too heavy for him. Before sending the vessel back to Port Jackson Grant wrote a letter to the Governor at Sydney stating the reason for her return. He placed the letter between two flat pieces of lead, and running close to the Bee threw it on board. The Lady Nelson then continued her voyage, and at 4 P.M. on the 10th sighted the north head [Point Perpendicular] of Jervis Bay bearing west-south-west 8 or 9 miles distant. At seven o’clock on the following morning the first mate was sent in the boat to look for an anchorage, and returned at nine with one of the natives, bringing the information that there was good holding ground in the southernmost cove between an island [Bowen Island] and the main. At half-past ten the Lady Nelson anchored in this cove in four fathoms water, fine sandy bottom, having run over a shallow some four cables’ length which was easily distinguished by the colour of the water. The native who came on board was a middle-aged man, stout and muscular, who showed no symptom of fear. It was evident he had seen white men before and he often repeated the words ‘blanket’ and ‘woman.’
“Grant tells us he was much surprised at several articles on board particularly the compass in the binnacle. ‘On my conducting him down into the cabin and placing him before a looking-glass [mirror] he expressed wonder by innumerable gestures, attitudes and grimaces. He narrowly examined it to see if any one was behind it; and he did not seem satisfied till I unscrewed it from the place it was fastened to. The sound of a small bugle horn had a very great effect on him, and he endeavoured, by applying it to his own mouth, to make it sound, but without effect..... This stranger whom I had placed near the natives of Sydney, sat by them, without saying a word, for about half an hour, soon after the expiration of that time, great familiarity took place betwixt them. It appeared evident to me that..... the stranger’s attention was directed to the woman, though like the rest of her countrywomen, she was, according to our notions, far from being possessed of any beauty: however, not only this man, but many other natives who visited us at this place, thought her very handsome; nor was I surprised at this when I saw some of the females here..... It appeared as if they did not really understand each other.....
“ ‘Before we got to an anchor several canoes came round us, in one of which was an old man whose hair had become perfectly white with age, which, joined to his long white beard, made him a very interesting figure. The natives appeared to pay the old man great respect and obedience of which I saw more afterwards..... I admitted some of the natives on board but the old man could not be prevailed on to be one of the party. They all testified much surprise at what they saw.’
“The natives of Jervis Bay seemed to be stronger and more athletic than those at Sydney, and in the management of their canoes - they differed from any Grant had ever seen, ‘particularly in paddling, sometimes making use of an oval piece of bark, and at others, of their hands, sending the canoe along very swiftly by either means. When paddling with the hand they were apt to throw more or less water into the canoe, which, with a small calabash [a bowl made from a shell or gourd], they dexterously threw out by a backward motion of the other hand without turning their heads.’ At one end of their canoes he observed two or three wooden pins which he thought were designed to steady their fish-gigs or to receive the heads of spears.
“He tells how the sailors clipped their beards: ‘From observing the smoothness of our chins, they all expressed a desire to have theirs the same, which some of y people instantly set about, clipping them close with scissors. Not seeing any of these people painted, I was desirous of knowing if they were addicted to it. I accordingly got some red paint which as soon as one of them saw, he immediately made signs for me to rub his nose with it. About our settlements they are often seen with their noses painted with a red gum. They likewise form a circle nearly round their eyes with a whitish clay. The latter, it is said, is by way of mourning for the death of a friend..... The women also paint their noses red, and their breasts with a streak of red and white alternately. Having occasion to leave the deck for a while, one of my young men (who had contrived to get hold of some of the vessel’s paint pots) very deliberately painted the man (whose nose I had rubbed with red paint) with different colours from head to foot while he grinned his approbation at his own motley appearance. His comrades seemed to enjoy it as much as he did and they quitted the vessel in great glee.’
“The Lady Nelson lay abreast of a fine sandy beach suitable for hauling the seine, and the commander’s party, which included Mr. Barrallier and the Sydney native, went on shore. A number of blacks immediately surrounded Euranabie and began to converse with him, using many words that seemed to resemble the Sydney dialect, such as ‘Bail,’ which Grant says signified ‘No,’ and ‘Maun’ to take off or carry away. These natives, when the seine was hauled, showed their delight by gathering round and giving their assistance unsolicited. A few large whiting were caught, and except three that were kept back for the white party, were distributed among them.
“Shortly afterwards, other natives arrived who also wished to have some fish, so the nets were cast a second time, and the whole of the catch was handed to them without division.
“Their number was so considerable that it was believed that many more were concealed in the bushes..... They were all perfectly naked except one young fellow who had a bunch of grass fastened round his waist which came up behind like the tail of a kangaroo. He was very merry, and from his gestures, possessed a keen sense of humour. ‘He would throw himself into a thousand antic shapes, and afforded no small entertainment.’
“ ‘Having sent the boat on board with the seine,’ continues Grant, ‘I was anxious to get some kangaroos which, from the appearance of the shore, I made no doubt were to be found in plenty. I made signs to the natives for that purpose, and one of them offered his services. We walked towards the end of the beach we were then on, and entered the woods. We saw several parrots and smaller birds of beautiful plumage. Mr. Barrallier fired at one of the latter, which so frightened our guide that he took to his heels and ran back to his companions.’
“In this excursion the explorers were impressed by the silent grandeur of the forest trees: there was no underwood, but there was excellent grass, from which sprang coveys of quail, or partridges of New Holland. [Birds of the Shoalhaven]
“The trees in general were the tall she-oak so common in the neighbourhood of Sydney. * [Footnote - * Casurina suberosa, commonly known as Beefwood.] Grant returned to the beach and went on board to diner. In the afternoon, he again made a party for the shore, consisting of Mr. Barrallier, Mr. Cayley, botanist, and two soldiers. They entered the woods at the same place as before, intending to make a circuit back to the boat. Again, beautiful birds were seen, among them, some cockatoos which were perfectly black ‘excepting the breast and a few feathers on the wing which were yellow.’ They were so shy that no one could get near them. Other birds were killed - whose flesh, when cooked, was very palatable; that of the parrot resembled our pigeon in taste -’possibly because they feed on seeds of wild plants.’
“According to Grant, ‘no country in the world abounds with a greater variety of insects. We saw numbers buzzing about the trees..... Having pursued our walk inland we fell in with a swampy land in a valley with much brush wood; a rivulet of excellent fresh water ran briskly through it [Telegraph Creek], emptying itself in the sea near to where I had ordered our boat to haul the seine. We found the track of the natives and fell in with several of their gunnies or habitations. These are constructed with a few boughs stuck up to screen them from the wind; bones of beasts, birds and fish were lying about them. On the return to the boat, Mr. Barrallier shot a large hawk. Our fishing-party had caught some fish, and would have been very successful, but two sharks got into the seine and tore it in several places: they were both brought on shore, one measuring seven feet in length. The liver I ordered to be carried on board, to be boiled for the oil and used in our lamp.
“ ‘On the 11th of March, the wind still hanging to the south, I took some hands on shore to cut a boatload of wood and fill our water casks..... Messieurs Barrallier and Cayley, with two soldiers, accompanied me on another excursion. We took another direction inland..... but saw no kangaroos. We met with two small lagoons [Lake McKenzie and Lake Windemere] and several streams of good water running through the thickest part of the woods. In this excursion we saw the Laughing Bird so called from the noise it makes resembling laughter. * [Footnote - * The Giant Kingfisher or Kookaburra.]
“ ‘On our return to the boat we fell in with a spot of ground which appeared to have been selected by the natives for the purposes of festivity. It was a small eminence having no habitation near. We counted the marks of fifteen different fires that had been employed in cooking fish and other eatables, the bones of which were strewed about. Among them we picked up part of a human skull - the os frontis with the sockets of the eyes and part of the bones of the bones of the nose still attached to it. A little distance from where we found this we discovered a part of the upper jaw with one of the molars or back teeth in it, also one of the vertebrae of the back having marks of fire which the others had not.
“ ‘The grass was much trodden down, and many of the bones of the animals eaten appeared fresh..... I brought off the human bones and on getting on board showed them to Euranabie. Finding two of the natives from the shore in the vessel, I desired him to ask whether these bones belonged to a white man or not, and if they had killed and eaten him. I was anxious to have this cleared up, as the ship Sydney Cove from India to Port Jackson had been wrecked about twelve months before to the southward and it was reported that some of the crew were killed by natives near this place.’ * [Footnote - * The Sydney Cove from Bengal to New South Wales was wrecked on Preservation Island, Tasmania, on 8th February, 1797. Her long-boat was equipped and despatched on 27th February to Sydney, but the boat filled and went to pieces at a spot called Ninety Mile Beach. Out of the crew of seventeen, who started to walk to Port Jackson, only three lived to reach their destination - some dying of fatigue and hunger, the others were murdered by the natives.]
“Euranabie, who spoke English, made inquiries, and a soldier who understood the Sydney dialect, also endeavoured to extract the truth regarding the bones, from the two black fellows, who said that they were those of a white man that had come in a canoe from the southward where the ship ‘tumble down,’ meaning that it had been wrecked. Lieutenant Grant also questioned Worogan, and was informed that ‘the bush natives (who appeared to be a different tribe of people from those that lived by the seaside) did eat human flesh.’
“He now prepared to leave the port. ‘On the 12th, we got into a clean berth for getting under weigh, but in the morning the wind being variable and light we were prevented sailing. I went on shore with Mr. Barrallier to make a survey of the cove we were lying in. When preparing to return to the vessel we were joined by several natives who appeared anxious to go on board with us. Two of these were strangers who signified that they had come a long way to see us and that they were very hungry. They were both young, stout men with longer hair than the natives generally.
“ ‘In the afternoon..... it was needless to attempt sailing till the wind abated. I therefore proposed to survey..... the western side of the island [Bowen Island] which lies in the mouth of the harbour and shelters the cove from easterly winds. This island I named Ann’s Island, in compliment to Mrs. King, the wife of the Governor.
“ ‘In putting the surveying instruments into the boat the chain was found missing; we were of opinion it had been left on shore by the soldiers who carried it in measuring the distances. A boat with one of them was sent on shore. After a fruitless search they were returning when a canoe put off from the island [Bowen Island] with a man in it who held up the chain in his hand. The boat’s crew brought him on board to me. On looking at the chain it was made up in the usual way..... and tied with a piece of string; but in undoing it I found that the natives had untwisted every bend of the wires that contained the brass markers and after taking them off bent the wires back into their original form, with this difference, that they placed the end which is carried in the hand in the middle. This was the first instance I had experienced of their pilfering anything and I did note chuse [sic] to proceed to extremities. I gave the native a blanket and some biscuits and the mate gave him an old hat.
“ ‘We got into the boat to prosecute the intention of surveying the island [Bowen Island]..... the native with us, towing his canoe astern. On landing we were joined by a great number of natives who seemed glad that the man had been rewarded for carrying back the chain. The blanket attracted their notice much, the use of which they appeared to know. The old man whom I formerly mentioned was among them; he made signs for me to sit down at a distance from the rest and by pointing to his white beard signified a wish to have it cut off, which I immediately did with a pair of scissors, and he expressed much satisfaction at being rid of it.’
“Observing some of their women in the distance and wishing to see what they were like, signs were made to the old man to ask them to come nearer. He called to them, whereupon they seated themselves close to the visitors. They seemed nervous as the white men approached them, but when the old chief spoke to them sat down again composedly. One of them had fastened to the neck of her child a brass marker which had been taken from the stolen chain. Grant says: ‘They examined my buttons and the head of my dirk and seemed much surprised at my watch chain which I began to think they had an inclination for, but I was soon relieved on pulling out my watch. They did not seem to like it and talked very gravely among themselves; they were all anxious to listen to the noise of the watch, yet they would pull their ear from it and look at the watch with symptoms of fear..... and then return to it again. I attempted to point out the use of it and pointed to the sun, but I am led to think that they believed it to be something we worshipped. The old man particularly pointed to the sun and appeared anxious to know more of it.’
“A boy about twelve years of age who was a little deformed, carried a sharp pointed stick in his hand which was the only weapon of defence seen but it was soon perceived that they had weapons not far distant. The Lady Nelson’s commander by signs told the chief that he wanted fresh water. ‘The old native readily understood and getting up made me follow him to the side of a hill where some water had settled, but it not appearing to be from a spring, I expressed my desire to be taken to a rivulet. A native stepped forward, as I supposed, to show me, but on my following him he turned back and left us. Thinking from the direction we were in that water was not far distant I took one of my men with me to whom I gave my fowling-piece to carry..... We saw another native a little way before us to whom I signified what I wanted.’ As Grant approached, this native, by a sudden jerk of the foot, raised and caught up in his hand a spear; the weapon rose within six inches of the Lieutenant’s face and caused him to turn and grasp his gun from his attendant. The native, however, merely put the spear on his shoulder and walking leisurely towards a cliff stood looking at the sea. It was not supposed anything hostile was meant but the action showed that the natives had weapons concealed.
“ ‘At 5 A.M. of the 13th, we weighed anchor with light variable airs and got clear out of the cove by ten, when we found a moderate breeze from north-east, and we made all possible sail to the southward.’
“Grant then gives his opinion of Jervis Bay, a place destined to be much more important in the future of the continent, as it will serve as port to Canberra, the seat of the Australian Government. ‘It is worthy of remark that Jarvis’s Bay * [Footnote - * i.e. Jervis Bay.] or sound is large, commodious and easy of access, affording shelter from all winds and having room for upwards of 200 sail of ships with plenty of wood and water. When this bay comes to be more known, it will be found eligible for vessels bound to Port Jackson after a long passage from England..... and will be the means of saving many lives.’
“From Jervis Bay the Lady Nelson continued on her voyage southwards and, on the 19th of March, off Point Hicks, she met with a strange sail, which proved to be the ship Britannia, Captain Turnbull, from England, bound for the whale fishery. She was going to Sydney to refit, and thus gave Grant an opportunity to send a letter to Governor King. He wrote as follows :
“POINT HICKS, NORTH BY EAST 12 MILES.
“ ‘18th March, 1801.
“ ‘SIR, - Seeing a vessel to windward, and judging you would wish to hear of us..... I sit down to write you a few lines before she joins us, as I suppose she is bound to Sydney, and from her situation, I presume she is one more who has come through the Straits [Bass Strait]. The Bee, no doubt, has arrived long ere now. I, on Tuesday morning after she parted, got safely into Jarvis’s Bay [Jervis Bay], and sailed early on Friday with the wind at the north-east which only lasted 30 hours so that we have been nearly 5 days in beating in sight of Cape Howe and could not weather it, the wind being south but moderate.
“ ‘During our stay in Jarvis’s Bay [Jervis Bay], we were by no means idle, which you will be convinced of, I hope, when we arrive. The weather I have had these 5 days convinces me that the Bee would have been a very great retard to us..... for the sea here, when it blows hard (owing, I presume, to the current setting strong against the wind) makes it run confused and break much..... Mr. Barrallier has got nearly well of his seasickness and we have had the azimuth compass to work, which he now understands thoroughly. Murray is well, and all my people are comfortable and happy. - I am etc. JAS. GRANT.’
“On their parting, the Britannia steered to Sydney, while the Lady Nelson stood to the southward, meeting with a southerly wind and being so retarded that it was 8 A.M. on the 21st before Wilson’s Promontory was sighted. When close to the rock which he named Rodondo, Grant observed the latitude to be south 39 degrees 4 minutes. * [Footnote - * The latitude of Wilson’s Promontory is 39 degrees 7 minutes 55 seconds and the longitude 146 degrees 25 minutes east. In the log, Lieutenant Grant gives the former as 38 degrees 59 minutes and longitude 146 degrees 6 minutes east.] From Wilson’s Promontory, the land sloped to the north-north-west as far as the eye could reach, becoming low and level towards Cape Liptrap and from Glennie’s Islands. The Lady Nelson now followed the coast towards Western Port. On the way her commander named a point Cape Paterson in honour of Colonel Paterson of the New South Wales Corps.”
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