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This extract is taken from Excursions and Adventures in News South Wales Vol. I, by John Henderson and published by W. Shoberl, London, 1851.
pp. 82-101.
“DURING my last expedition, I had not gained much valuable information. I had come out with the intention of settling in the country as an agriculturist, or grazier, but what I had already seen was by no means encouraging. Catarrh was raging among the sheep, and carrying them off by thousands the drought had left the cattle little either of grass or water, and consequently they were following the sheep; and the agriculturist, as might be expected, was in as bad a plight as the grazier.
“With advice I was furnished in abundance, but it was so various that it was difficult to judge of it. One person recommended me to buy sheep, and to form a squatting station beyond the bounds of the colony; another, to embark in cattle; and a third to purchase land within the bounds, and combine farming and grazing together as I best might. Land at this time cost five shillings per acre, i.e., such was its minimum price; but, on applying for a section it is put up to auction, and it may mount up to any sum people are foolish enough to bid for it. The principal advantage proposed by those who advised me to buy land was the obtaining convicts (or Government men as they are called), five or six of these being assigned with every section of six hundred and forty acres which are bought.
“This certainly seemed a very fine thing to a new comer, and all who could, availed themselves of it. It was very well indeed for the large capitalist, but I afterwards knew gentlemen who had been ruined in this way, and that not so much by laying out money on land (though that was folly) as by beginning on too large a scale, and maintaining prisoners for whom they had no use.
“Under all these circumstances, I resolved to lie upon my oars for six (perhaps twelve) months, and to spend that time in travelling over the colony, and in gathering information and experience.
“I had not been long in Sydney before I was invited by a very kind friend to accompany him on an expedition to the southward, in order to visit his stock and farm in the Kangaroo ground [Kangaroo Valley], which lies near the Shoalhaven River, and considerably beyond Illawarra. I of course gladly endorsed the proposal, and having provided myself with saddle-bags to carry a few clothes, I proceeded to my friend’s house seven miles from town (it being in the direction of our intended journey), in order to pass the night previously to starting. Our party consisted of two gentlemen in a sort of cab, and myself on horseback.
“Before we had gone many miles, one of those hot winds for which Australia is noted, began to blow. The gale was high, raising clouds of dust, and yet it scorched one like the blast from an oven. We went some thirty or forty miles that day, passing through Campbelltown and Appin, annoyed by the dust, and suffering much from thirst and fatigue. Ourt ride had been as little interesting, and the country had proved as monotonous as on my former excursion.
We staid all night at a small roadside inn, and the next morning set forward towards Illawarra, which we intended to reach that night. This day’s journey was considerably more interesting than the last, especially towards the close of it. After passing through several farms, where a few fields had been cleared, we arrived at Jordan’s Creek, a small stream, flowing in a deep and rocky chasm, having very rugged and precipitous sides. It was a work of some time and labour to get the vehicle in which my friends travelled across this chasm; as, though the brushwood had been cut away, little more seemed to have been done towards forming a road. We, however, obtained some assistance from the nearest location; and having led the horses across, succeeded in dragging the cab over.
“Our route for a considerable distance after this lay through a region of sand, chiefly producing brushwood and stunted gum-trees, and here and there some very beautiful flowers, among which I may mention as pre-eminent the ‘Warataw.’ [Waratah] This grows to the height of from two to four feet , consisting of a woody and tapering stem, surmounted by a flower of a brilliant scarlet, not unlike the peony-rose, both in size and colour, but more beautiful. The leaf very much resembles that of the English oak.
“I also saw here, for the first time, the native pear; a fruit of the size and shape of an English pear, but proving itself of genuine New South Wales origin by being exactly the opposite of that fruit in other respects. Unlike the edible pear, the stem is attached to the large end of the fruit instead of the small. It is of a beautiful fawn colour, with a down on it, hard and firm as solid wood, and, when plucked and kept any time, splits down the centre to neat the stalk, each side folding back in an exceedingly graceful shape, and displaying a very thin flat seed between.
“About the middle of the day, we halted at a small stagnant water-hole, mantled with green, in order to take our meridian repast. Soon after leaving this, we were met by the Episcopal clergyman of Woolongong [Wollongong] (the settlement or township of Illawarra) who had come thus far to meet my travelling companions, having been previously apprized of our intended trip. As he was like myself, on horseback, he became my more immediate compagnon de voyage over this rugged and sterile tract, and by his intelligent, agreeable conversation, beguiled the path of its monotony.
“Leaving this waste behind, we arrived at Illawarra mountain, called par excellenee ‘The Mountain,’ an elevation presenting but little ascent on the side from which we approached it, but both very long and steep in descending towards Woolongong [Wollongong]. From the top is obtained a most beautiful view of the district of Illawarra. To the right is seen Lake Illawarra a very fine sheet of water, but unfortunately salt. Beyond that extends the sea, sprinkled with a few small rocky islands (from which the district is sometimes called the Five Islands), and more to the left, are some remarkable elevations and bold bluff-heads, peering out from the dense forest.
Near the top of this hill, I saw some very large stringy bark and gum-trees,* [Footnote - * Eucalyptus.] all of them (as is the case all over the country, even in the far interior) exhibiting marks of burning. Into one still living and thriving but the heart of which had been burned out, I rode, and with the greatest ease turned my horse and passed out again. Such giants of vegetation are not uncommon in the bush, but all trees of nay great size are mere shells, the heart being consumed by fire and decay.
“A tolerable road leads from the top of the mountain to the vale below, passing for the most part through a rich brush. This is the name given to those spots occupying the banks of rivers and creeks, the ravines and hill-sides, and occasionally the sea-coast, where vegetation is of a rank, and even tropical luxuriance, consisting of white woods, and other varieties, found nowhere else, mingled with large gums (eucalyptus), the whole being one thick mat of brushwood, woven together with vines, or creepers, of various kinds. In these only, grow the beautiful red and white cedars, the elegant bangala,* [Footnote - * Seaforthia elegans.] and the tall and stately cabbage-tree,+ [Footnote - + Corypha Australis.] the two last being of the palm tribe, and having a decidedly Oriental appearance [Colonial Timbers]. Here, too, we find many beautiful flowers, if we examine the outskirts, or stumble on a spot where a ray of sunshine can penetrate. I may also mention the noblest flower of Illawarra, perhaps of New Holland, the gigantic and beautiful lily, which rearing its head to the height of twelve of fifteen feet, on a straight and tapering stem, reigns the sovereign of all Flora’s train.
“The brushes are inhabited by paddy-mellons (a small species of kangaroo), by kangaroo rats, bandycoots [bandicoot], &c., besides affording shelter during the day to vast numbers of the flying-fox, and, during the night, to a great variety of birds. Having descended the mountain, we passed through a rather pleasing country dotted with one or two farms, till we reached Woolongong [Wollongong], a pretty little township, or village, on the sea-side. It was then a thriving little place possessing three churches, Episcopalian, Presbyterian, and Roman Catholic, but a very poor inn.
There was no harbour, the steamer or any little craft that might touch here, being obliged to lie in the open roadstead, but an iron gang was at work excavating a basin out of the solid rock [Belmore Basin]. Now, however, I am informed that the great depression which has occurred in the colony, has affected Woolongong [Wollongong] to such an extent that it is almost deserted, two-thirds of the houses being uninhabited, and the streets being green with grass.
“We staid here a day or two, and made some very pleasant excursions to places in the neighbourhood; among others, to a beautiful property in the immediate vicinity, called Balgownie, where I saw some splendid specimens of the tall and airy cabbage-trees. The proprietor informed me that they were considerably above a hundred feet high. They generally stand in clusters; the stem is small, round, and perfectly straight, and has neither branch nor excrescence, from the ground to the top, which is surmounted by a cluster of leaves, resembling in lightness and elegance a bunch of ostrich feathers.
“In the calmest day, these graceful trees, pointing like spires towards heaven, are seen waving to and fro, moved by the light zephyrs that float above. On this occasion, I found, for the first time, in the brushes, a singular tree, having dark green leaves, so rough on the upper surface as to act like a file, or rather like emery paper, on the finger nails [probably the Sandpaper Fig]. In this neighbourhood, very good coal has been found.
“The following say, I went on a shooting excursion through a part of the district called Dapto, to Lake Illawarra; but except a few ducks that we found on the lake, we were not successful. Indeed this is a poor sporting country; and, barring wild duck on the rivers and water-holes. and pigeons of various kinds in the brushes, together with parrots, cockatoos, and bronze-winged pigeons in the forest, little or nothing edible, or affording sport, is to be met with to recompense the sportsman for the extreme toil he must encounter in such a country, under an almost tropical sun, and often without even a drop of water.
“The next day, we pursued our journey southwards, passing through Dapto, near which is a rather fine waterfall (when there is any water in it). Our route lay over some very pretty country, at first taking us through three or four tolerable farms; but it soon became more rugged, leading us up some steep ranges and ending by landing us in a very large and dense brush, a few miles from Kyama [Kiama], our halting place for the night. As it was now dark, and the road very bad, we had some difficulty in getting the cab along, owing to the stumps and holes which everywhere beset the path. However we reached the public-house, or Bush Inn, in safety, prepared to enjoy the humble fare that was there to be had.
“Kyama [Kiama] is a village reserve, that is, a place set apart by the Government for a future village; but there are as yet no inhabitants, but those at the inn. There is no harbour [Robertson Harbour was constructed c.1887]; merely a small bay, on the verge of which the inn stands. The coast of New South Wales is all much the same character - sandy bays and lines of abrupt rock alternately. In both cases the timber, generally small and scrubby, sometimes brushy, approaches the verge of the bay, or rock. Occasionally, the heights are rounded off, and covered with greenish turf; and, in such cases they are bare and without timber.
“Next morning, before breakfast, we walked upwards of a mile along the coast to see an extraordinary cave in the rocks, called the ‘Blow-hole,’ from its spouting water up into the air after the manner of a whale, or like an immense jet d’eau. We found it quite equal to the description we had received. A large cavern runs inland two or three hundred yards, and into this the sea dashed with violence. At the end of the cavern, the crust has fallen in in former ages leaving a round orifice of considerable size through which the water propelled from the cavern rushes in a tall, high, beautiful spout, dispersing itself as it falls in spray.
“Between this and our humble inn was pitched the tent of a young man, a Government Surveyor, engaged professionally in that quarter. He breakfasted with us, and, after partaking of an excellent substantial meal, we set off on our journey. Our route this day lay sometimes inland, sometimes on the immediate coast; and, after travelling a considerable distance on the sand [Seven Mile Beach], we reached Shoalhaven, the property of Alexander Berry, Esq., Member of Council. Here we passed the night, being received in the most hospitable manner. The following day, we went over his extensive and magnificent property. It is situate near the mouth of the Shoalhaven River, the house and stock establishment being furthest down, and the cultivation, dairy, windmill, &c., higher up the river.
“At another point is found a bay, where is a wharf, from which trade with Sydney is carried on. On this establishment, I understand there are upwards of two hundred men, almost everything being provided, and made, and mended on the spot.
“the following day (being Sunday) we attended divine service, performed by the excellent Episcopal clergyman of Woolongong [Wollongong], who had accompanied us thus far for that purpose, and who at least, once or twice a month, makes this long and dreary journey on a similar errand. In the afternoon, we ascended a high conical hill, called Coolan Gatta [Coolangatta Mountain], from which we had a very extensive view to the southward. The grass on this hill, having been set on fire by the blacks, when we descended a short distance, we found ourselves hemmed in by a belt of fire, which, blazing and crackling fiercely, looked very formidable. However, as it was ascending, there was no help for it but to make a bold push, and rush through it, which we accordingly did, escaping with a very slight scorching.
“At night, the whole mountain was in a blaze, and looked most grand and beautiful; so much so, indeed, that one of my travelling companions, who had seen Vesuvius in a state of eruption, declared that the sight before him was equally splendid.
“At Shoalhaven, I saw that singular bird called the ‘gangang,’ [Gang Gang] grey and red, and having a crest or top-knot. It looks as if it were a cross between the parrot and cockatoo, though it is probably a species by itself.
“On Monday morning, we started for the Kangaroo Ground [Kangaroo Valley], leaving the cab behind, on account of the difficulties we had to encounter. By mid-day, we arrived at the formidable range [Cambewarra], or hill, over which one must pass, that being the only means of entering the Kangaroo ground [Kangaroo Valley], which is a large and deep valley, hemmed in by mountains on all sides, and sunk as a cup in the midst of them. Like the happy valley of Rasselas, it is not easy to get into or out of it; and no drag or wheeled vehicle has ever yet succeeded in surmounting the obstacles. When you are once in, the scenery is beautiful.
“Through the centre runs a large and clear stream of excellent water [Kangaroo River]. On its banks the grass is most luxuriant, and, at a little distance, rise majestically and abruptly the rocky and thickly-wooded mountains. Of course, a place like this, unapproachable as it is by any conveyance, save a horse, or pack-bullock, is unfit for the purposes of farming, but for a grazing establishment it is well calculated.
“After spending a couple of days in this secluded and romantic glen, we bade adieu to it; and, climbing the steep ascent by which we entered, proceeded to retrace our steps to the Shoalhaven, and thence to Sydney, over the same ground we had traversed before.
“The district of Illawarra which I had just visited, has been called the garden of the colony, and is not undeserving of that name. It is but a narrow strip of country lying between the sea and a line of rugged and unavailable mountains. The soil is generally a rich black alluvial deposit, and the climate warm, and not so dry as in most parts of the colony, giving birth to fine timber in the forest, and in the sheltered and rich bottoms to the most luxuriant brush, or jungle. It is somewhat famous for its fruit, producing most of the species peculiar to warm countries, and indeed some of those belonging to the tropics; but in this respect it is not singular, as the same effect can be obtained with care in most parts of the colony. There are some very good farms in the district, but it is too confined to admit of large grazing establishments. I fancy there is not much field for the labouring emigrant, and it is unsuited to the intending settler, unless he wishes to sit down in a cultivated quarter, and purchase a farm already formed.
“While here, I conversed with a settler who was busy preparing his land, and found that he had a small piece of ground from a proprietor in the neighbourhood, on what is called a clearing-lease. The terms of his bargain were that he was to clear a certain portion of the brush and forest land, for his own use, and to occupy it rent free for seven years. He did not seem to think very well of his speculation; and, considering the immense labour and expense attending the operation, the uncertainty of the seasons, and small value of the crops, together with the distance from a market, and the difficulty of transport, I should decidedly say that the landlord had the best of the bargain.
“Whether the labourer can make anything or not in this way, it is certainly the best and cheapest method a man can take to get his land cleared. For the single labourer, I think it would be much better to engage himself as a servant; though, for the married man, who has a family, it has advantages, and, by dint of hard labour, he may thus be enabled to support his wife and children, though he must not expect to do more. If he has a cow or two, the keep will cost him nothing; and except as regards butcher’s meat, he must feed his family on what he raises by his daily labour. Wheat, maize, and pumpkins will be the staple; and clothes, along with tea and sugar, must be purchased with the money obtained for the wheat and tobacco which he may sell.
“At the same time, nothing can be done for a year, after commencing on a clearing-lease; and, unless the tenant be supplied by his landlord with tools and rations for six months, as is the case in some instances, it will most likely be a hard fight with the poor man. To the landlord, whose ground is useless to him (except for grazing) until it is cleared and fenced in (to do which will cost from three to ten pounds per acre), the clearing-lease system is by far the safest and best, though, of course, it is a process of some time.”
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