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The following report is taken from the Sydney Gazette of the 17th of April 1813:
“The Matilda, Capt. Collins, which sailed on Sunday the 25th ult., for the purpose of exploring Shoal Haven, returned last Tuesday. On Wdenesday the 29th she went into Jarvis’s Bay [Jervis Bay], which is about 24 miles to the southward of Shoal’s Haven, and next morning a party went from the vessel and returned after a day’s travel. The following party, consisting of a Naval and Military Officer, Mr. Archer, Deputy Commissary, and the Commander of the Matilda, and six of the Samarang’s and three of the Matilda’s ship’s company, set out with three natives as guides; who staid by the party 24 hours, and then deserted them when at a distance of 12 or 14 miles from the vessel.
“The following is an extract of a journal accurately kept during the survey; for the liberty of publishing which we acknowledge the highest sense of obligation to the Gentleman from whom we receive it : -
“Brig Matilda, Wednesday, March 29. - Got boats out, and sounded about the Bay - Greatest depth of water 15 1/2 fathoms; least 3 1/2 fathoms. The bay in general appears calculated to afford an excellent shelter for vessels to run into in a gale of wind, when so circumstanced that they cannot clear the land, with the wind to the eastward. The entrance is very bold, and affords sufficient water for the largest ships in the British service. The Bay lies east and west; and at the bottom of it a long flat sand runs out, which is nearly dry at low water. To the northward of the flat there is a river [Carramar Creek], which we entered with the vessel’s boats, the tide being on the last quarter ebb, and proceeded up about the distance of a mile, when we grounded. the tide fast ebbing we endeavoured to track the boats up, but found this impracticable, owing to the softness of the ground, which was mostly a depth of mud. We were in consequence obliged to relinquish any further progress for this day, and determined to return to the vessel without loss of time, least the entrance of the river should be dry before we could reach it. With much labour and difficulty we tracked the boats back, but unfortunately the entrance was dry; and we were obliged to wait for the flowing of the tide, which did not commence until 3 1/2 hours afterwards. This circumstance, however, afforded me an opportunity of ascertaining the rise of the water; which I found to be eight feet in height. At night we returned to the vessel, and early next morning set out again for the purpose of exploring the above mentioned river, which we now entered with the tide on the first quarter flood: this enabled us to cross a long flat at a short distance from the entrance of the river, which is divided into reaches. Perceiving three natives, who were waving at us, we took them in as guides, and proceeded upwards with a view of exploring it to its extremity, which was soon effected, as it reached but about 6 miles, and turned out to be only an incursory arm extending from the northern part of the Bay. Its soundings were very irregular, in some places full 7 fathoms, and in others not more than 4 feet, with a muddy bottom. Unable to penetrate further by water, we found it advisable to send the boats back to the vessel, and endeavour to cross by land over to Shoal Haven, which we conjectured to be about 11 miles distant. We landed on a marsh, and travelled the distance of a mile and a quarter with great difficulty; sinking knee-deep at every step. At the end of the marsh, however, we arrived at an extensive plain, perhaps from 30 to 40 miles in circumference, with very few large trees, but a number of what is called the grass-tree, which bears the Piaria or bastard pine apple. On the northern verge of this plain we entered a thick wood, which under guidance of the 3 natives we penetrated until we reached a large lagoon 3 miles in breadth [Lake Wollumboola], and crowded with numerous black swans, duck, and geese, and which empts [sic] itself into the sea. We travelled by the side of the lagoon, and at length arrived at a large bay that fronts the sea [Crookhaven Bight], which though very extensive, being not less than six miles across at the mouth, appeared to be very unsafe for vessels to bring up in, if the wind should be at all to the eastward, as it lies completely open to the sea. It would have been very satisfactory to have sounded this bay, but without boats it was of course impossible. Keeping along the beach we arrived at the mouth of the lagoon, and found a sand-bar stretching directly across to the opposite shore. The tide was now at ebb, & running very strong, we were at first apprehensive that we should not be able to wade across in the direction we wished; but a native going first, we followed, and got over with little difficulty, the water not exceeding four foot in depth. Here we found ourselves in a beautiful scope of country, about five or six miles in length; at the extremity of which we had a thick bush to contend against for about two miles - and here another lagoon presented itself, considerably larger than the former [Curleys Bay, on the Crookhaven River]. This was a very disheartening circumstance: it was 2 P.M. and we were much fatigued; however, we determined on perseverance, and halted for a time to refresh. Our guides fared as we did, and exhibited no signs of discontent; but after they were well regaled, two of them suddenly disappeared: but the third still remaining, we hoped yet to effect our purpose of making an overland passage to Shoal Haven. Our remaining guide, however, shortly after forsook us. Regardless of our fire arms, he made a sudden vault into the lagoon, and directed his course to the opposite bank, which he gained in safety, and thus we were reduced to the necessity of abandoning our project, and endeavouring with the assistance of a pocket compass, to make the best of our way back to the vessel, which we accomplished the same night. Next day, Friday the 31st, we landed and set out afresh in a north-westerly direction, determining to trust no more to the natives of that quarter, in whom the writer is strictly of opinion no dependence should at any time be placed. Such were the natural impediments that presented themselves, however, that we penetrated but two miles this day, and rested in the bush tiil [sic] the morning following, when we resumed our travel at daylight, and continued on till night, when we once more halted. On Sunday morning we again set forward, and after three miles we had to cross an extensive morass, which we performed with incredible difficulty, frequently sinking to the waist. At the end of this a thick wood lay before us, on passing through which our further progress was completely intercepted by a river [Crookhaven River], which we had no doubt ran through the chain of mountains. We made no effort to pass this river, as the country on the opposite side appeared to be thickly covered with reeds to a very great distance, and we had no doubt of its being one continued morass which it would have been equally rash and fruitless to attempt. We were now not more than 16 miles from the vessel, after three days travel, and surmounting difficulties which were forbidding in the extreme. On Tuesday we retuned to the vessel, having had to ford a river in our passage [Coonemia Creek], by which however we avoided the deep morass above mentioned: and we were all of opinion that a passage overland from Jarvis’s Bay [Jervis Bay] to Shoal Haven is perfectly impracticable. During the journey we saw no cedar trees, but those of she-oak, and the gums, of enormous height & magnitude, some girting not less than three and four and twenty feet near the butt - The latitude of Jarvis’s Bay [Jervis Bay] is 35 degrees 35 minutes S, and the longitude 134 degrees 11 minutes East of Greenwich.”
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