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The following article was transcribed from The Argus, 10th May 1879 :
“NOTES OF A TRIP TO THE
FISH RIVER CAVES.
(FROM THE BATHURST FREE PRESS.)
“The following contribution has been furnished by Mr. J. B. Yondale, of Sydney: -
The abovementioned caves are, beyond a doubt, among the grandest natural sights in New South Wales- perahps, we might safely add, in the world. We had from time to time, heard a good deal of them; and now, having the leisure to visit them, our desire and curiosity were about to be gratified. The writer and two other gentlemen having made the necessary arrangements, agreed to meet at Tarana, the nearest station on the line, from which we travelled on horseback to the caves- a distance of rather more than 30 miles. The first afternoon we rode as far as Oberon, in the neighbourhood of which we pulled up at a farmhouse, where we were made comfortable and welcome for the night. About noon of the next day we resumed our journey, having some 15 miles further to travel. The guide, Jeremiah Wilson, now joined the party, mounted, and with a pack-horse laden with the necessary provisions and other requirements for the three days we intended to spend inspecting the caves. It is a grand ride, over and among the mountains, and the silence and solitude of nature proved a grateful change from the work and worry incident to commercial life in the city. Our party being small, and well mounted, and the guide very familiar with the country, he took us by a bridle path instead of along the usual road. As we approached t he caves, the general scenery at times was grand. Our path in the main lay along the bed of a dry creek, while on either hand bald precipitous cliffs rose, sometimes to the height of 500ft., from the rocks of which now and again a nimble wallaby looked down upon us, and seemd to say, “What business have you intruding on our domain?” The traveller cannot but notice with pleasure the well-grassed hills and the number of small running streams among the valleys which five a bountiful supply of water to birds and beasts. Our path was often steep and sometimes dangerous, for a slip would have resulted in a roll over into the creek below. All the journey we had to go in single file, and our packhorse seemed to know both his work and his way.
“The government is making provision for a much easier approach to the caves by a zig-zag road, which is now being formed down the mountain sides. Having arrived at our journey’s end about 5 o’clock, the guide at once commenced to make preparation for having tea, and it was not long before we sat down to a humble but acceptable meal. Whatever may be the normal character of our clerical friends during their trip to the caves they practised freely the art of panning and being facetious. At the very commencement of our first meal, doubtless occasioned by the primitive style of things, one was heard to say, “You don’t call this dining, but putting food away.” Tea being over and night coming on, we thought it well to inquire of the guide about sleeping apartments, when we were somewhat surprised to see him pointing up at some great boulders of rocks about 80ft. above the platform on which we stood, and informing us, “Yonder is your sleeping camping.” We then began to clamber up, and if any of our city friends could have seen us marching to bed in single file it would have provoked a hearty laugh. Having selected a spot and placed our blankets on the ground behind a perpendicular rock, we again descended and got ready to follow the guide into the caves.
“The guide now introduced us to the Flitch of Bacon Cave, so named on account of the roof being formed of pendant rocks, bearing in shape and size a strong resemblance to “flitches of bacon.” I should think a Sussex street produce merchant would feel quite at home in this storehouse of dame Nature. There is not much beauty to be seen in this cave, and the guide displays his wisdom by making it the first, leaving the “old wine” to last. There are some large caverns, the proportions of which are revealed by the use of magnesium wire, which the guide now and again makes use of. Some of the massages we had to pass through are almost dangerous, and as I beheld one of my clerical friends desperately striving to squeeze through a small passage in the solid rock, there came across my mind the awful possibility of having to dig him out; however, the human frame is pliable, and a little combined exertion carried him through. Having spent about an hour in exploring the Flitch of Bacon Cave, we returned to find ourselves about 90ft. above the spot where we had entered, and the descent to the platform demanded considerable care. Having seen a portion of the caves by candle and lime light, we were now favoured with a grand moonlight illumination, the general effect of which was very pretty, as the moon rose right opposite the grand archway. We all stood still, admiring the combination of the grand and the beautiful,--
“Till the moon,
Riding in clouded majesty, at length
Apparent Queen, unveiled her peerless light,
And o’er the dark her silver mantle threw.”
“The night brought us rest, but little sleep. The novelty of the position, the murmuring of the running stream below, and the character of our beds and bedding, with the roof 150ft. above us, all combining to prevent sleep.
“We rose early the following morning, and at once brought ourselves into harmony with the novel state of things around us.
“After breakfast we again made a start on our exploring trip, visiting the Devil’s Coach House, with its grand archway 270ft. high; also the Devil’s Hole, down which, if you throw a stone, you can hear it fall into a subterranean creek some 500 feet below. In this cave we made our first acquaintance with the wire ladders. At present there are nine of them, and they vary from 10 to 90 feet in length, and it requires some little nerve to ascend and descend them. However, they are a great convenience and save a deal of climbing. One of the most formidable of these ladders is found in the New Caves; it is about 50 feet high, and almost perpendicular. It is very creditable to the guide that, although hundreds have gone up this ladder, no serious accident has befallen visitors. When ladies ascend, the guide is immediately behind them, so that if they fall it is into his strong arms. The Arch Cave is very lofty and grand, presenting a weird appearance in many places. In this cave there are some stalactites which produce a very musical sound when struck with a stone. Both in the grand archway and all through rthe caves names of previous visitors are thickly strewn, being written on every available space. In the grand archway some have been adventurous climbers, seeking to write their names higher than those of any others. We noticed the names of some person’s friends amongst them. What is known as the Grand Arch is an immense tunnel right through the hill, about 1,000ft. in length. The arch on the side you enter is about 40ft. high, but is fully 200ft. Just below the Grand Arch, which constitutes the camping ground, a subterranean creek springs from under a large rock having a strong flow, and the water is delightfully cool and clear.
“We next visited what are known as the New Caves, and adequately to convey to the mind of the reader a conception of the beauty and vastness of these wonderful limestone excavations is difficult indeed. I shall perhaps, best impress the mind with a general idea of the dimensions of these ________ caverns by simply saying that we wandered about in them for three hours, walked and climbed for three miles, did not cover the same ground twice, and then came to daylight again without seeing all the points of interest. The New Caves arte a suite of caves of vast extent, and far superior to those we had formerly visited. The names of some of the apartments are- Cathedral Cave, Music-hall, Exhibition, Brides, Fossil, Snow-ball, Lurline, Rolling, and Shawl. To the mind of the intelligent reader the names given to the various portions will convey some idea of their characteristics. Many a wallaby seems to have retired into the Fossil Cave to die in peace, and their bones are bleaching on the limestone floor. The formations in the Snowball Cave are such that one could suppose a snow-balling match had recently come off, and the walls been frequently struck. The Lurline Cave contains some of the most handsome stalactites; and they are beautiful indeed, various in size and shape, and all more or less transparent. it is difficult to say what the stalactites and stalagmites are like; but we would be safe in saying that they resemble marble, alabaster, china, and crystal. The Exhibition Cave contains a well 20ft. deep, from which we all had a draught of the purest water. This well is supposed to be at a lower level than the creek outside. The Shawl Cave is very pretty, having on one side what looks like a waterfall, cause by the stalactites that have been formed on a perpendicular rock; the manufacturing process is still going on, and the end of every pendant is bristling with a drop of water.
“It is needless to say the caves are as dark as Erebus; and if anyone of a poetic turn of mind longs to tread in Milton’s foot-steps, let him just pay a visit to the caves and there fire his imagination. At the close of the day we returned to the camp with those words in our minds-
“His wisdom’s vast, and knows no bound,
A deep where all our thoughts are drowned!”
“The last day of our trip we spent exploring the Imperial, which have only just been discovered, the exact date being February 16th, 1879. The keeper of the caves, Mr. Wilson, was on what he terms a “fossicking tour,” and had himself lowered by means of a rope down a dark opening, some 50ft. deep, when he found himself on the floor of a new suite of caves, henceforth to be known as the “Imperial.” From the name and the guide’s information, we expected much. We entered the Eldertree Cave, so called because to reach it you have to descend an eldertree, which, by the way, is nearly unfit for further use, being worn out by the treading of many feet. Its removal will result in gain to visitors, if replace by a ladder. For the first hour it seemed to me as if we were to be disappointed with the Imperial, which, so far, gave but little promise of realising the high expectations we had formed. Many of the passages to this cave are exceedingly difficult and demand nerve and caution to pass through them. The placing of a wire ladder in the hole the guide was let down when he discovered the cave would overcome much of the difficulty. The guide has just discovered in these caves a subterranean creek, having a ______ running stream about 10ft. wide and 1ft. deep, about 500ft. below the part we entered. It is almost impossible to reach it, the descent is so precipitous; but a wire ladder will remove the difficulty. As we reached the new and more beautiful apartments of this suite of caves, we had frequently to linger to admire the beautiful pillars of vestal purity and rare magnificence which rose around us. Being the first party to enter the Imperial Caves, things were new, and points of interest still unnamed; and having two clergymen with us, it was a fitting opportunity to do a little christening, so we named one pillar “Lot’s Wife,” another stately column “Pompey’s Pillar,” and a third “The Sentinel,” for it stood alone on some rising ground, as if keeping watching over the treasures around. One most attractive apartment, with walls like alabaster, we named “Marble Hall;” and when the guide introduced us to what he had already called the “Gem of the West,” we said “Enough, you cannot show us sights more beautiful.” The roof is covered with stalactites of all sizes and shapes, and as ceiling, walls, and floor sparkle in the light, the whole scene is novel and charming. This marvellous piece of Nature’s handiwork will long live in the meory, for “a thing of beauty is a joy for ever;” and without wishing to explore further, we returned without having seen a considerable portion of these extraordinary caves.
“There is no question that in time to come, when easily accessible, these caves will be largely frequented by visitors from all parts of the world; and now, while it is possible, would it not be advisable for the Minister of Lands to make a provision by placing wire netting at exposed points, and by placing iron gates at the entrances, for preserving these glorious products of Nature’s handiwork in their primitive state? otherwise Goths and Vandals (in the _____ of reckless men) will soon rob them of their beauty and attractiveness. I would also suggest, that the guide by provided with a suitable book for visitors to write their names in, and in this way the number who annually visit the caves could be determined.
“Not being very wise, but rather otherwise, on geological and scientific subjects, my expression of opinion will not carry much weight, but still I think that there is little doubt that the denuding influence of water has been the pricipal agent in producing the Fish River Caves. We know that the two conflicting forces in nature are fire and water -the one volcanic and eruptive, the other ever striving to reduce everything to a common level- and doubtless in this case both elements have had something to do in forming the wonderful hills and still more wonderful caves it was our pleasure to visit.”
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