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pp. 443-450.
“12th [12th October 1836]. After a meeting, at an early hour, in one of the rooms of the commodious house at Lumley, our kind host [Robert Futter] set out for his sheep station, on the Menaro [Monaro] Plains, in a four-wheeled carriage, on springs, attended by a servant on horseback. With a little care, in choosing the road, and places for crossing rivers, a carriage may be driven for a few hundred miles, in the untracked country. In the Colony generally, most of the acknowledged roads, are merely cart tracks, with the bad places cut through, or filled up. They are bad to travel upon in wet weather; but the weather is so generally dry, and free from strong frost, that these tracks are much less cut up, than they would be in a climate like that of England. - In the forenoon we visited Bungonia, a rudimentary town, and had a religious interview with a road-party, seated on some logs, by the way-side. Here, a gentleman, visiting this country from India, on account of his health, whom we met at Lumley, took us up in his carriage, with the view of expediting our journey; but the pole breaking, in crossing a rut, occasioned some delay. While this was repairing at at the station of the Marulan Ironed-gang, two men were brought up by the guard, charged with throwing pieces of tobacco to the prisoners, at work on the road. Being strangers they were reprimanded, and allowed to proceed. For this offence, free persons are often fined, and prisoners in assigned service are flogged, to the amount of fifty lashes. The carriage being repaired, we proceeded, but sometimes had to hold it back, in descending the hills, on an almost trackless road, until at a later hour than if the journey had been performed on foot, we reached Arthurslee [Arthursleigh], a fine station for agriculture and sheep feeding, belonging to an opulent gentleman, whom we had met near Goulburn, and who now welcomed us as his guests. The country, though more clothed with wood, and more hilly than that near Goulburn, was still on a basis of granite, which projected in some places, above the surface. Two acres were on an average required for sheep, on the better pastures. Near the house, White Clover, Trefoil, a spinous-seeded Medic, Rib-grass, Rye-grass, Shepherds Purse, Erodium cicutarium and moschatum, and some other English plants, had established themselves, as they have in many other parts of the Colony, where they spread and thrive, often more vigorously than in their native country.
“13th. After meeting with the numerous people of this establishment, we gain set forward, and proceeding over some open-forest hills, and across the Wollondilly and Paddy’s Rivers, entered the Wombat Brush, a forest of Stringy-bark, Peppermint-tree, and low scrub, upon barren, quartzose hills, in which a species of White Ant [Termite] was numerous. The conical habitations of this insect, were from four to six feet high, and very solid; sometimes four of these were in sight, at a time. A more fertile tract, on Whinstone or Basalt, succeeded, upon which a few settlers were located, whose little fields and orchards, with Apple and Plum-trees in blossom, presented a cheerful aspect. We next came again upon the sandstone of Black Bob’s Creek, on the rocky borders of which, Epacris cerinthoides was clothed with a profusion of white flowers. Here we got a drink of water, the only refreshment we had, in a walk of twenty-two miles, to Oldbury, where another religious opportunity concluded the labours of the day.
“14th. We again reached Throsby Park. On calling at a cottage, where some shoemakers were at work, to inquire the road, I was recognised by a man from York, who said he enlisted as a soldier, about ten years since, and went to India where he was ‘unfortunate,’ that is committed a crime for which he was transported, and was sent to this Colony; here, after seven years’ bondage, he had become free, and was working at his trade.
“16th. In the forenoon we had a meeting at Bong Bong, which consists of a few scattered houses, on the Wingeecarabee [Wingecarribee] River, and in the afternoon, at a small settlement, called Sutton Forest, where there is a weather-board, Episcopal chapel.
“17th. Many persons are now on their way southward, to their sheep shearings, and the number of drays, conveying their provisions is considerable. On the way to Mittagong, we fell in with two young men, with whom we had become acquainted, who were on a twelve days’ journey, toward their sheep stations, on the Doomut [Tumut] River, far southward, beyond the located part of the Colony. They were resting by the side of the road, having two saddle horses, and a tilted cart, in which they slept and carried their provisions drawn by two other horses, their two attendants sleeping under the cart. After taking coffee with them, in gipsy style, we pursued our route over the Mittagong Range, which, like much of the adjacent country is basaltic. The Gum-trees upon it are of several species. One called here, the Woolly-butted Gum, seems identical with the Black-butted Gum of Tasmania [Colonial Timbers]. The White Gum was beginning to drop its manna, in small pieces, of pure white, from the increased warmth of the weather, which also occasioned the merry Tettagonias, here called Locusts [Cicadas], to keep up a continual rattle, in which, in the species inhabiting these forest, there is a remarkable undulating harmony.
“Between Bong Bong and Mittagong, we passed the huts of several veterans, who had grants of 100 acres each, in this fine neighbourhood, where the soil is rich, in many places, overlaying basalt; but drunkenness and profligacy have kept these wretched people in poverty, where industry and sobriety would have been rewarded with plenty. At Mittagong, we became the guests of Charles Sturt, a benevolent and enterprising man, well known on account of his long, exploratory journies, to the southward, in company with George M’Leay, of which an account is published. Their courage among the native Blacks, by which they were preserved from hostility, is an interesting feature of their narrative.
“18th. After a religious interview with the family and establishment, we again set forward on our journey: the track lay through an inhospitable territory, called Bargo Brush, which is thick forest, on a sandstone formation. The timber is chiefly Stringy-bark, of tall and slender growth. A fire had blackened the trunks of the trees, and consumed the scrub; but many of the gay shrubs that ornament these desolate forests, were again springing, and putting forth their lively blossoms. We met several companies of Blacks. Some of the women had considerable quantities of Native Currants, the fruit of Leptomeria acida, that they were carrying in vessels scooped out of the knots of a gum-tree, some of which will hold several quarts. We dined at an inn, the landlord of which was killed, a few days before, by a fall from his horse, when intoxicated; the following night, the wife of an innkeeper, nearer to Goulburn, died from excessive drinking, which is the bane of these Colonies. After sunset, we passed through a small settlement, called the Stone-quarries [Stone Quarry or Picton], and at length reached Jarvis Field, the residence of a pious Police-magistrate, from whom we received a cordial welcome, after a tedious walk of twenty-five miles.
“19th. We had a religious interview with the family and servants of the Magistrate, in a room upon his premises, erected for a court-house, in which this worthy man, not only assembles his family and establishment, for public worship, but also a neighbouring road-party, with the ticket-of-leave men, and others who reside near; on First-days, he reads the service of the Episcopal Church to them, with a sermon; he also assembles his own household twice a day, for the reading of the Scriptures and prayer. We were present this morning on one of these occasions, to our comfort. - Departing from Jarvis Field, we had a religious opportunity with a neighbouring road-party, and then crossed the range of hills, called Razor-back [Razorback], and proceeded through open, grassy-forest , to the Cow-pastures [Cowpastures], where, at Brownlowe Hill, we were welcomed by George and James M’Leay, sons of our kind friend the Colonial Secretary.
“20th. In clearing the land about the tasteful, genteel, cottage, and garden, at Brownlowe Hill, more care has been taken not to destroy its beauty, by cutting down the trees indiscriminately, than is usual in these Colonies; where trees, being the encumbrance of the land, are generally cut away unsparingly. Much of the land in this part of N. S. Wales, has been cleared by human industry; it is now covered with luxuriant crops of wheat and barley, in ear, but not sufficiently advanced to be out of danger, from a single day’s hot wind, such as not unfrequently blights the hopes of the husbandman, in this sunny climate. - We visited the agricultural establishment of the M’Leays, on Mount Hunter Creek, where they have a garden, producing Oranges, Apples, Loquats, Pears, Plums, Cherries, Figs, Mulberries, Medlars, Raspberries, Strawberries, and Gooseberries, and where Roses are in great profusion. We then proceeded to Cawdor, where, at the Court House, the magistrates sentenced a young prisoner-shepherd, to receive fifty lashes, for carelessly suffering his flock to get mixed with another.
“From hence, we accompanied William Macarthur, to his noble mansion at Camden [Tour of Historic Camden], which is of two stories, built of beautiful sandstone, and finished in a style equal to that of the dwellings of the upper class, in England. The gardens are extensive, and well laid out. Many of the beautiful, native plants, are here cultivated successfully, for ornament; and a grassy lawn looks very English, but to preserve it, much watering is required in summer. The seasons have latterly, been so dry, that not more than 10,000 sheep can now be kept here, where formerly 30,000 were maintained; the flocks have consequently, to driven to the higher lands, to the south, for pasturage. Some families of Blacks are regularly rationed at Camden, on the score of justice; the present proprietors, and their father, to whom they succeeded, rightly considering, that this was due to the people, whose lands themselves had occupied.
“21st. We visited the Camden farm-establishment, a mile distant from the house, and had a meeting with about 100 of the men, who are now busy with the sheep shearing. Both here and at Brownlowe Hill, the Episcopal prayers are read to the men by their masters. These establishments are also occasionally visited by the exemplary and diligent, Colonial Chaplain, from Cobbity, on whom we made a call, and then returned to Brownlowe Hill. In some fields, on the road, the people were making hay, from oats and barley, cut green. Grass rarely becomes fot for the scythe, in this country. The thermometer to-day was at 90 degrees [32 degrees centigrade], in the shade. I walked into the forest by moonlight, along with George M’Leay, to see the Opossums.
“The Vulpine, Phalangista vulpina, and some other species are common here, including flying ones. There is also in various parts of this Colony, an animal, called the Koala, Phasclaretos fucus, which like the Opossums, feeds at night, in the Gum-trees; but it is without a tail, and somewhat resembles a small bear: the pupils of its eyes are vertical, and its ears are large. - Several of the intelligent settlers, in this part of the country, have paid some attention to Natural History. Studies of this kind do not generally gain much attention in new countries, where the mind becomes much engrossed by clearing, building, and obtaining the necessaries of life; but some of the settlers in N. S. Wales, have risen above this point, and occupy a position analogous to that of English gentlemen. The growth of wool is however, the prevailing object of attention.
“22nd. The thermometer rose to 100 degrees [37.7 degrees centigrade], in the shade, which rendered travelling, even for a short distance, very oppressive; but we proceeded to Cobbity, where we were the guests of Thomas Hassal, the Episcopal Chaplain. Many people in the neighbourhood were affected with fever, which was so prevalent that it had obtained the name of Influenza, and this good man was diligently ministering to their temporal relief, and spiritual instruction. In one family, to which I accompanied him, the father, in a state of high fever, was in the same bed with two of his own children. The crowded state of some of the huts of the poorer settlers, renders them extremely uncomfortable in times of sickness. In the evening, we had a meeting in a school-room, near the chapel; it was a satisfactory opportunity, notwithstanding the heat continued to be great.
“23rd. Being mounted on ponies, by our kind friend T. Hassal, we proceeded through the beautiful vale of the Nepean River, assembling the establishments of some considerable Colonists, on the way to Winbourn, the residence of George Cox, by whom we were received in a very friendly manner, and who conveyed us in his carriage, to a place used for public worship, on the premises of one of his brothers, at Mulgoa, where he had appointed a meeting for us, at which about forty persons were present. After a solemn silence, of considerable duration, in which the divine presence was comfortingly with us, strength was afforded to proclaim the gospel message, with much warning and encouragement. After the meeting, we returned to Winbourn, which is a substantial mansion, having the features of an English gentleman’s seat; it is situated in a country resembling an English park; such indeed, is much of the district, which includes Camden, the Cowpastures, and Mulgoa.
“24th. Passing several fine estates, which are as verdant this year, as they were parched a year ago, we came to Penrith, and went forward to Duneved, the residence of Captain Philip King. Here we received a kind and Christian welcome, and had a meeting with his large and interesting family, in which the benign influence of maternal piety was clearly to be traced.
“25th. This morning, I witnessed the operation of milking some cows, that had been brought up wild in the bush. They were driven into a fold; where, with some difficulty, their calves were separated from them. A noose, at the end of a rope, was thrown over their horns, by means of a long pole, and the rope was drawn through a ringbolt, in a wall, so as to bring the cow tightly up. In this position she was milked; but from the time occupied, the risk of injury from the untractable beasts, and the small quantity of milk obtained, I thought it was a very dearly bought article. - We proceeded down the western road, to Parramatta, and after calling on some persons there, went to the Vineyard, where we became the guests of Hannibal H. Macarthur, from whom we received an invitation, when at his house, in the district of Argyle. The mansion at the Vineyard is an excellent one, of two stories, with a capital garden, pleasantly situated upon the navigable part of the Parramatta River, or to speak more correctly, near the extremity of the estuary of Port Jackson, to which the Parramatta River is but a small, tributary brook.
“26th. We returned to Parramatta. and paid our respects to the Governor, and this son, John Bourke, who made many inquiries relative to our visit to the southern part of the Colony. We called also at the Factory, where the female prisoners are now under improving discipline. Many improvements are visible in Parramatta, since we visited it, a little more than a year ago. The demand for lime, has raised that article to 1s. 6d. per bushel [approx. 35 litres]. In the evening, we returned to the Vineyard, and had a religious opportunity with the family and servants.
“Hannibal H. Macarthur is one of the members of the Legislative Council of the Colony, for which office he is well qualified; being an intelligent, upright man, who has a large interest in the country.
“27th. We returned to Sydney, calling on the way at Pennant Hills, where we had a religious interview with an Ironed-gang, and Invalid Road-party, and at Kissing Point, where we dined with Isaac Shepherd, a good old man, who has a son, a missionary in New Zealand, and a daughter, the wife of a missionary in Tahiti. I. Shepherd has resided forty-two years in this colony, and has prospered temporally, as he has grown in grace, in which he has exceeded most of his contemporaries. He is the proprietor of an Orange-grove, the trees in which, exceed in size, any other Oange-trees, that we have seen in N. S. Wales. We called also at Tarban Creek, to see the new Lunatic Asylum, which is in progress, and taking the steam-packet, at the adjacent ferry, arrived in Sydney, in good time in the evening; we took up our quarters for the night at a comfortable hotel.”
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