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Writer’s and Researchers relying on Berry’s Paper to the Philosophical Society have had difficulty in interpreting the route undertaken by Berry, Hume & Davidson in January 1822 when they explored the Clyde River region.

Two important source documents give us more insight into this and it is possible to draw some reasonable inferences and reach a conclusion. The first is a letter, written by Berry on 13th February 1822, to the Governor. Its location is: State Records of New South Wales, Colonial Secretary’s papers, 1788 - 1825, 4/1759, Reel 6054.

I will quote some important passages:

“At this point I left the Boat accompanied by Mr. Hamilton Hume and Thomas Davidson and took a journey of four days into the interior, in order to examine the country; and on our way back ascended the Pigeon House, the cone of which seems seated on the beginning of the Flat Table Land of Argyle Shire........”

“To the West of the Clyde we found a more considerable stream running betwixt that river and the Mountain of Arglyeshire, which we traced through all its meanderings untill it entered a rich valley south of the Pigeon House, where we left it flowing slowly to the East, at this place it had the appearance of being affected by the tide, through its whole course it exhibited marks of high floods & contained many enourmous trees scattered about in its Channel.”

The emphasis above is mine as this clearly points to the party being on the Bimberamalla River and not Belowra Creek as many other writers have postulated. Berry’s note of tidal influence is inexplicable as he clearly recognises the signs of flooding. His description of Pigeon House is also worth quoting:

“The basis of the Pigeon House consists of this sort of Slate overtop’d by a terrace formed of immense Masses of a Conglomerate or Plum Pudding Stone.

“The Peak or Cone which rises on the Terrace consists of Horizontal Sandstone and the Dome consists of enormous Masses of the same material.

“The range of the Terrace is a poor Clay covered with stunted bushes resembling a Heath, the Peak on the contrary is covered in trees which also spring out of the crevices of the rocks to the very summit of the Dome.

“At the foot of the Cone we found a fine stream of fresh water.”

Before looking at our final source document lets just recap the scene.

1. It’s the middle of summer, and a dry one at that, walking would have been arduous and tiring for a party unused to it.

2. We have three men (their aboriginal guide deserts on the first day), only one of whom, Hamilton Hume, has any experience in the bush and been on any land expedition whilst Berry is in command.

3. There are no maps, just a great big blank sheet of paper, the only known feature to take bearings from is Pigeon House, which eliminates the possibility of triangulation to determine location.

4. Distances would have to have been estimated, and probably poorly at that, as we will see below.

Our final, and most important source, is Berry’s Journal of the Expedition which is held at the Mitchell Library in Sydney, Alexander Berry, 1802 - 1873. 53 Manuscripts re travel, early business affairs and life history. Voyage in Snapper, Diary. 9 Jan - 8 Feb. 1822. ML MSS 315/53, Item 12.

It is interesting to note that Berry’s guide informed him that the Clyde estuary, or Batemans Bay, was called Yanery by the Natives and that there was an equally large river called Meuroo “five days to the south.” Berry’s group had left the Snapper at 3 p.m. on the 17th January and spent their first night camped on the left bank, opposite Lachlan Island. He noted heaps of shells left by the natives all along the shores of the river and several huts, but on the following day higher up the river they didn’t observe any huts or natives. On the 19th January they left the boat, probably at a point between the old Shallow Crossing and Brooman’s Ford, which is the current Shallow Crossing.

To make it easier to follow I have tabulated Berry’s traverses for the land expedition:

Time Start & Date Distance, miles Bearing Elapsed Time My Comments 0515; 19th January 1.5 East   Left boat and ascended Ridge on eastern side of river   1 North East   Following ridge   0.5 N.N.W.   Following ridge   0.5 N. half. West   On top of a steep hill; Pigeon House bearing about North. Hune estimates distance to Ph.H. at 4 or 5 miles, Berry thinks 10 or 12.   0.5 N.W.   Descended back to Clyde River   1 N.W.   Crossed the Clyde River   1.5 N.W.   Ascended hill, on reaching summit were deserted by native guide. 1715 2.5 N.W. 12 hours for day. Descended hill and reached river running S.W. to N.E. 0600; January 20th 2 N.W   Crossed river and ascended ridge. P.H. bearing 39 degrees East   2.5 W   Continued along ridge   1 N   Attained a great height, valley to west bounded by N-S running Range.   1 N.W.   Along Ridge   3 N.W.   Ascended hill and down other side following a stream. Reached larger stream flowing to N.W.   3 N.W.   Travelled along river to Junction with stream entering from S.W. None Given None Given None Given   Travelled along river to camp. 0500; January 21st 3 N. by E.   Travelled along river   1 N.E.   Travelled along river passing two streams entering from S.W.   1 East   Travelled along River   2 East   Travelled along River, stop for breakfast.   2 East   Travelled along River. Ascended Hill P.H. bore E. half. N. Descended to River.   2 East   Travelled along river   5 East   Crossed river, flowing south, and ascended ridge reaching the top of Pigeon House at 1630. Descended to ‘a deep and steep valley or ravine’, camped for night. 0630; January 22nd 3 S. 1.25 hours Followed stream   1 S.E.   Met river running to East, affected by tide and larger than the Clyde. The party then left the river.   2 S.W.   Cross Country   1 S.W.   Cross Country over rising range   2 S.W.   Cross Country over rising range   2     Descended hill to south, and followed creek running west for 2 miles until Clyde was reached. Clyde running N-S. Crossed river to west bank.   3 E.S.E   Cross country until river met again and crossed to East bank.   2 S.   Cross country until river met again. Camped on a beach. Hume shot a Lyre Bird in the here. No time Given; 23rd January 4 S.E.   Travelled along ranges, crossing streams and flats on banks.   0.5 S. half East   As Above   0.5 S.S.E.   As Above   1 S.W.   As Above   1.5 W 1030 Reached Boat

What are we to make of all this ? There are several points that need addressing:

• If we include all of the relevant information, ie. Distance, time taken, direction travelled and Bearings taken to Pigeon House, the route does not make sense. Try it yourself on any modern Topographic Map or maps ! To make any sense of it we can immediately disregard the time element as not enough information is given and we have no way to compare the time it would take to complete the same trip if we undertook it today. We can also delete distances travelled as this would have been mere estimation, based on previous experiences. This leaves compass bearings and direction travelled. The route now becomes apparent !
• What was the aim of the Expedition ? Was it to find out whether the Clyde had its source in Lake George, or if it was a trafficable waterway for transporting produce from the ‘New Country’, or merely to climb Pigeon House ? If the latter it was a success, but if for any other reason it was a failure and waste of Government money.
• The expedition seemed to have no plan; why start out to the East towards the coast, only to turn N.W. again to reach the Clyde, slightly further up than where they started ? Why not travel straight up the river or strike out west ?
• It is clear that by the time Pigeon House was reached no one had any idea of what river they were on or where they were, apart from being near Pigeon House, which is the most recognisable landmark on the south coast. The first rule for exploration is travel along the ridge lines or creeks, not cut cross country on compass marches ! It is hardly surprising they were confused.
• Berry’s statement of 30 years later, SMH 12th March 1852, “We also ascended the River Clyde and proceeded to its termination in a torrent or Mountain Stream.....” was, and still is rubbish ! It is evident that he came nowhere near it, didn’t pass the rich alluvial flats at what was later to be called Yadboro and for most of the time didn’t recognise the Clyde when he was on it, as he believed that, like all the major rivers on the east coast, it flowed North !

What Berry & Co. did was still an achievement for the time, but it strikes me as one of those glorious follies that men sometimes undertake rather than having achieved anything tangible towards the advancement of the young colony. But, we can’t possibly finish without Berry’s description of the view from the summit of Pigeon House:

“The Dome is at least 100 feet high, although the view must be extensive we derived no advantage from it as our horizon was completely obscured by haze and from the smoke from the grass on fire in all directions.

“The ridge of the terrace seems on a land connected with the high land of the New Country & the hill which Hume mistook for P.H. [the Castle or Talaterang ?] seems only distant a few miles, besides from the top of this hill a road could be traced in a direction to the west over the ranges in clear weather.”

Oh, and what is my interpretation of the actual route ?

Old Shallow Crossing - Loop to the East and Back to the Clyde - Cross over Ridge on West Side and Back to Clyde - Up Long Ridge & Over Mogood Trig. - Birmberamalla River - Pigeon House - Boyne Creek - Clyde River - Cross Country Heading South - Back to Start Point.