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This account is taken from Historical Records of New South Wales, , Vol. V. - King, 1803, 1804, 1805., Ed. F. M. Bladen, NSW Government, Sydney, 1897:
pp. 718 -
“GEORGE CALEY’S observations on the Cow Pastures, which he
calls Vaccary Forest, with Governor King’s remarks on such
parts as he visited. * [Footnote - * Apparent addressed to
Sir Joseph Banks. Caley started from Prospect, on his first
journey, 11th February, 1802; his seccond journey was made
in October, 1802.]
“2nd November, 1805.
“MR. CALEY gives no account of the land between Prospect Hill and the Nepean in the direction he went, which being the same route I took in my journey, I shall give such an account of that space as passing through that track afforded. With few exceptions, the whole space appears fit for pasture, and the hills would certainly afford some ground for cultivation, particularly about a range six miles from Prospect, named the Devil’s Back, from whence Cabramatta Creek, which falls into George’s River, takes its rise. Some of the ground between the Devil’s Back and the south line of Government allotment is very indifferent, not to say bad, but taken altogether is much the same as all forest land in the colony - some good spots and some indifferent; but he whole of the track of country between Prospect and the Cow Pastures may be called good grazing ground, and extremely well watered for the use of cattle and culinary purposes where the land admits of cultivation.
“The usual for crossing the Nepean is nearly opposite the hut. * [Footnote - * Doubtless near the spot where the ‘Great Southern,’ or ‘Old Cow Pasture,’ Road now crosses the Nepean, at the town of Camden.] A thick brush grows on both sides the bank. The land about a quarter of a mile in is gentle hills, the soil much like the forest land in other parts of the colony, but covered with the droppings of the wild cattle. About five miles from the ford to the southward is a lake or pond, named by the natives Manangle. It is tolerable large and produces a quantity of eels, but it is sometimes dry in long droughts.
“Past Managle there is a tolerable extensive flat, and the ground hereabout has certainly a most luxuriant and fine appearance, highly favoured for raising stock, as the flats afford the finest pasturage for large stock and the hills for sheep, being covered with the most luxuriant grass, and ponds of water conveniently dispersed. It is probable some of the ponds are dried up in the droughts, but the river being so near makes this of less consequence. At the place called ‘Rippenden’ * [Footnote - * This name has disappeared from our maps of the present day.] in Caley’s chart, * [Footnote - * See the chart which was forwarded by Governor King, and is here reproduced.] the cattle tracts begin with every appearance of being a well-made road by the hands of man, which he calls the London Road, leading through the flat to the W.S.W., bounded on the north by a range of high hills covered with strong luxuriant grass and trees to their summits. Those cow tracks sometimes branch off to the most accessible parts of the hills, the range and summits of which appear to be the general resort of the cattle, particularly in warm weather. ‘Rippenden’ is about four miles from ‘Manangle.’ Near the former place Cayley fell in with a herd of the cattle. The were lying down when he first saw them, but soon after rose and fled. Shortly after they returned, halted at some distance, and stared at his small party consisting of a man, his horse, and a small dog, with some reluctance. Caley let his dog attack them, when they took to flight in great confusion. In this herd he counted 53 cattle, and nearly as many bulls as cows. He remarks they were in good condition, although he does not seem to admit the probability of their of their always being in that state, a deviation from which I never heard from those who visited them at every season. This was in February, when the grass was burnt, the want of which most certainly did not contribute to their good condition in which Caley then saw them. Exclusive of the reports of many others on this subject, I shall adduce two circumstances which fell under my observation. After finding that surrounding them with a number of horsemen and people on foot did not succeed in driving any part of them towards Nepean, which I had no favourable idea of, although I suffered myself to be persuaded of the probability of its succeeding. I directed a man in whom I could place a confidence to go out and shoot some of the outcast bulls of which there was a great many in small numbers of three or four together. For this purpose a small hut was built and a cask of salt placed in it. Four of these bulls were shot, each of which weighed on an average 800 pounds. The flesh was equal to any beef I had ever seen. This took place in July, 1803, but finding that one or two of these animals had got away wounded, I withdrew the party, and issued a proclamation forbidding any person to approach the Cow Pastures without written permission from me.
“In December, 1803, * [Footnote - * Governor Hunter, accompanied by Captain Waterhouse, Surgeon Bass, and the Judge-Advocate (David Collins), visited the Cow Pastures, and saw cattle, in November, 1795.] I went with a party to visit this part of the country, which not only confirmed the advantageous reports I had heard of it, but far exceeded my expectations. Near the spot where Cayley saw the first herd I have just noticed, we fell in with eight bulls which fled along the flat. As they went in the direction we were going, on seeing we followed, they turned off in different directions. Those bulls certainly appeared of a very large size and in good condition. Advancing further, we saw a bull with two cows and two calves. One of the cows we perceived was lame, and as the bull did not desert his companions we soon overtook them, when they made a halt. The bull advancing in front of the others fixed his eyes on us, staring and bellowing in a furious manner and tearing up the ground with his feet. One of the party advanced, shouting, to make him remove from the situation he had chosen for the protection of the family he either belonged to, or had joined. Perceiving he might be pressed by our number, being all on horseback, he ran most furiously at his disturber, who evaded his resentment, but the enraged animal immediately turned on the party, who had gone under cover of a row of trees. Myself being by chance the outermost, the bull made directly at me, and as the attack was so instantaneous, the gentlemen who were within me could not make room for my placing myself under cover of the outside tree. Seeing that I must be certainly unhorsed, if nothing else happened, I waited his close approach, and having my riding whip ready lifted, I gave a severe blow with the handle across his nose, when he instantly turned to the right, bellowing and frantic with rage. This animal I am well convinced was as large as the finest ox I ever saw in England, his skin sleek and shining, and, in fact, was a most noble animal. Several other isolated bulls were seen on our return; but from the intense heat at the time, it was apprehended that the herds in this neighbourhood were on the tops of the hills, which appears to be their chief resort on account of the refreshing breezes they find in those situations when compared to the heat on the low grounds, the thermometer being that day, December 18th, at 98 degrees in the shade.
“I have stated these circumstances merely to shew that those cattle being in good condition is by no means adventitious, as similar observations have been made at different seasons.
“Cayley does not say much of the intermediates space between his Rippenden and what he calls ‘Poppy Brook,’ and others who have gone there before him call it ‘Stone-quarry Creek.’ * [Footnote - * This name has been retained. The creek takes its rise in the high lands to the west of Picton.] Having also visited it myself under that name, Cayley makes its distance not more than 10 miles from the ford or hut; Barracks made it 17; my own calculation is about 14. [This is an interesting observation of how distances can be very subjective, and therefore misleading, in the accounts and journals of the early explorers and settlers.] As my party went there direct, mostly walking our horses, and as we set out at seven in the morning, and got to the creek a quarter past noon, I think our calculation will come nearer the truth than either. However, here the flat ends and steep hills commence, the broad and beaten tracks of the cattle still continuing in all directions from the creek or brook, where large herds frequently resort to drink. To this place the country preserves the same beautiful appearance, the range of hills arising between Manangle and Rippenden running the whole extent, nearly west, forming one side of the flat, and the Nepean River forming the south side. near Stone-quarry Creek Caley fell in with a party of Cow Pasture natives whom he knew, and enquired after a chief who had often been talked of at the settlements, named Cannabygal or Cannamikel, who then happened to be on a visit to this party. Caley describes Cannabygal and his tribe or family to be a stout athletic band, far surpassing the other natives in height and stoutness. Following the range about two miles from Stone-quarry Creek, Cayley makes the western termination of his Vaccary Forest, and from thence he turned to the northward.
“The ground between the end of the range of hills and his ‘Green Dingle’ is scrubby ground, and in some places forming rocky vallies [sic], interspersed with ponds of water and a little good pasturage here and there. Some little distance (half-a-mile) beyond Green Dingle appears to be a considerable resort of cattle from the width and diversity of their paths. He persevered in a westerly course till he came to the point (I), the ground being of the same nature as that after he left ‘Green Dingle.’ Still the cattle tracts were seen, altho’ fainter than before he returned, and before he arrived at the point marked - he found no more scrubby ground, but ponds of water and large cattle tracts, the largest of which, running N.N.W., they followed until they came to a creek or brook, marked (K), named by Cayley ‘Brush Creek.’ Between Brush Creek and ‘Bull Creek,’ marked (L) there was some very good land. From this station he kept a westerly course to determine how far the cattle tracks extended that way, but he soon found that they turned towards ‘Brush Creek,’ at (K), when he resumed his route to the northward, tracing the rocky and mountainous confines of the Cow Pastures, or Vaccary Forest. Between the two MM’s the cattle tracks grew faint, and perhaps the cattle did not chuse [sic] to quit the luxuriant food they enjoyed to the eastward for the brushy and rocky land that prevails from the first M to the river side at * [Mark on map.] This being a branch of the river not then traced, * [Footnote - * Probably that now known as Mt. Hunter Rivulet.] he made the best of his way to the traced part of the river, which he made much sooner than he expected, and as he was not far from a place he had named ‘Dove Dale,’ he went thither. By Caley’s journey and chart, he makes the extent of ground frequented by wild cattle, and from which they can have no inducement to stray unless driven, about 11 miles in the north and south direction, and about 8 in the widest direction from east to west. In abridging, or rather making a recapitulation of what he calls Vaccary Forest, he observes that it is formed of a great number of high hills, the ranges running in various directions, the tops in many places very narrow, and often forming small mounts. The sides are steep, and would be impracticable for the cattle to ascend and descend was it not for the vast number of projecting ribs which lead to and from the vallies [sic] linking one range to the other. These in many instances are so steep that was it not for the tracks it would not be credited they are frequented by the cattle.
“The vallies [sic] in general are very narrow, with small rills washing a rocky bottom. The parts that may be called more level are of a hilly nature, with small ponds of water in the hollows. The sides of some hills are brushy, and in some places rocks or large stones prevail.
“The most constant streams are Stone-quarry Creek (called by Caley Poppy Brook), and Bulbinmatta Brook. Little Brook (E) affords plenty of water; altho’ it is seldom dry, yet inferior to the other two. In a few places some good farms might be made. By the appearance of the cattle it is judged that the forest is excellent land, but these opinions are fallacious. However, admitting that to be so, but little of it could be converted to arable purposes by the hills being so high and steep. Upon the highest parts the cattle constantly travel, and in these places they seem to delight. How far it is their natural disposition to prefer elevated situations cannot be ascertained, or whether it is the heat of the weather or flies that force them up, is not certain, but the first seems probable. In short, taking the forest collectively, it seems formed by nature for the protection and support of cattle. Such lofty, mountainous, and intricate looking hills, abounding with grass, is seldom seen or heard of, commanding excellent views of many distant parts of the country.
“The most prevailing timber is box (a species of Eucalyptus).
“The forest is bounded on the north, east, and part of the south by the Nepean (Cayley calls it Hawkesbury); on the other part of the south and west by a rough mountainous looking country. Mr. Barrallier’s party gave an account of going over a large track of forest land beyond Natyi or Natai [Nattai], but between this and Vaccary Forest they say it was extremely rocky. The Nepean can only be crossed by the cattle on the north, because on the east and part of the south it is seated in a very deep rocky valley, whose sides in many places are almost perpendicular.
“From what Caley has observed, he deprecates the idea of driving the cattle in herds, which has certainly proved impracticable. Their number, he says, cannot well be estimated. He never saw more than 53 in one herd, and those he met with in general fell far short of that number. Were the bulls lessened, the increase might be much greater. At present they are equal, according to appearance, with the number of cows. The only way to lessen them must be by shooting - perhaps picking up the bull calves when very young, and prevent their increase.
“How they found out their present situation remains a mystery to caley, as he is ignorant how they were originally lost. The fact is, the first cattle brought to this colony in the Sirius wandered from the herdsmen in June 1788, who, from some cause or other, had neglected them till they strayed away, and notwithstanding the most diligent and active search they were not discovered till November 1795, when Mr. Collins’s accounting for their being found in this situation is very plausible, and I have so little doubt of its being correct that a reference to that part of his journal may be made for clearing up how they came in their present situation.
“The number of cows &c., first left there were as follows : - Five females, of which three were the property of the Crown and two belonged to Governor Phillip; a bull and heifer were also the property of the Crown. * [Footnote - * This on the authority of Collins (vol i, p. 437). Phillip, however, in three separate letters written immediately after the event (vol i, part 2, pp. 149, 152, 192), states in each that there were but four cows and two bulls. Apparently there were four cows, two bulls, and one female calf.]
“Some are at a loss to account for their appearing of a buffalo breed. This would easily be accounted for if their pedigree was traced. They vary much in size, but in general are good looking cattle. In their majestic horns and long legs, with the small humps, they have every resemblance to their ancestors that strayed in May, 1788.
“It has been supposed that several of those cattle have been wilfully killed, which occasioned my proclamation of July 6th, 1803. * [Footnote - * Ante, p. 168.] However necessary it was to guard against those practices, yet it does not appear that those reports were well founded, nor do I think that more than one has been thus killed, and if more than one have shared that fate their number must be very limited.
“It has been reported that the natives have killed some. This I doubt, as the natives have always shewn the greatest fear on meeting them, and climbed trees till they left the place. Perhaps in course of time this may be the case. After tasting beef they may endeavour to kill them.
“Native dogs may do mischief among the calves, as this seems to be the only mischievous animal in the country that prowls after stock, being very destructive to sheep, and is equally bad, if not worse, among poultry.
Caley’s map includes the track of a journey he went in December, 1802, in and about the Cow Pastures, to which he added his observations on other journies [sic] to make it more interesting.
“Explanation of Cayley’s Map.
“AA. Very high forest land, abounding with she-oaks, and hilly, and would make good pasture.
BB. A flat piece of ground; the soil being light would produce good crops of maize.
CC. Very rocky and mountainous.
D. Poppy Brook, or Stone-quarry Creek.
E. Little Brook.
FF. Rocky and scrubby.
F. Green Dingle.
GG. Scrubby; the soil light and of bad quality.
H. A deep rocky valley, the country appearing mountainous.
I. Forest land, and much frequented by cattle; scrubby in places.
K. Brush Creek.
L. Bull Creek.
MM. A brushy and rocky end of N.W. course.
N. Balbinmatta Brook.
OO. A large track of grazing land on top of the range and abounding in she-oaks (Cassuarina).
P. Part of the river.
.......... Track in December, 1802.
________ Do. February, 1804.
= = = = = Shews what Cayley calls the London Road, being the cattle track that leads along the flat.
== == == Shews void of space, or so much shorter than what was expected.
“EXPLORATION OF THE MOUNTAINS.
“SOME men who had been in the practice of frequenting that part of the mountains lying to the west of the settlements at Hawkesbury having reported that they had passed them and got into a plain on the opposite side, giving various accounts of it, I proposed to them going there again, and making such observations as might induce me to send an officer with them, when, in case of his reporting that the mountains had been passed by him, I should then reward them for their exertions, and at the same time fitted them with everything requisite for their journey.
“After being absent twelve days they gave the following report : From the junction of what is called the Grose with the Hawkesbury River they took a due west course which they continued nearly the whole of the way. When on the first range of mountains the soil beyond that for the distance of forty miles appeared good. From the top of the first range they saw a very high hill, twelve miles off which they gained after very bad travelling. The hill is covered with low shrubs and is equally good with the land about Hawkesbury. From thence they saw another hill, six miles off, which they did not go to. near that place they saw the heap of stones said to have been placed there by Mr. Bass as the bounds of his excursion in that direction. * [Footnote - * If the course given by these men, viz., due west from the junction of the Grose and Hawkesbury, is correct, this cairn of stones cannot be the same as that found by Blaxland, Wentworth, and Lawson in 1813, and surmised by them to have been erected by Bass.] They then saw a hill about forty miles off which they made for and about half way saw a river, but being so rocky and steep at the banks could not get to the water. About here all rocky, gravel, and heath, with springs, and bogs, &c. The mountains from hence appeared low, but to the west, southward, and north it seemed to continue rocky. They judged it would be easy travelling in this direction for many miles. The river here turns S.W. From thence it appeared they were tired and returned to Hawkesbury. The whole of their story is so contradictory that I should not have inserted these particulars but to prove what little confidence can be put in this class of what is locally termed bushrangers.
“EXTRACTS from Mr. Cayley’s * [Footnote - * Governor King thus spells Caley’s name.
Caley himself spells it with only one y.] observations on his journey to the
Carmarthan Mountains, and his observations respecting the practicability
of passing the mountains in that direction.
“Sydney, 2nd November, 1805.
“IN 1805, Cayley set off, accompanied by four of the strongest men in the colony, who had been accustomed to live in the woods, with an intention of gaining the furthermost of the Carmarthan Mountains, so named by Governor Phillip. For this journey he was supplied with every convenience he needed and could carry with him.
“The place he set out from, was the junction of the Grose, Nepean, and Hawkesbury, taking the north side of the Grose. For the distance of 3 1/2 miles from that junction of the rivers, in a W.N.W. direction, there is a very extensive track of fine grazing ground; the south side is very indifferent.
“The ground for three or four miles further west might bear crops of maize here and there in detached places among rocky vallies [sic].
“From the ridge of the first mountains seen from the settlements, the face of the country is generally rocky and barren like that about South Head.
“The vallies [sic] between the mountains generally run N. and S. The streams run to the southward into the Grose. As he advanced he found the country extremely rugged and barren, and the vallies [sic], of which many may with more propriety be called chasms, are for the most part impassable. Scarce any birds but a few lories are to be seen, and hardly a rod of ground that could be cultivated beyond the forest land first mentioned and Fern Tree Hill. Some part of the ground about the latter place cayley thinks might produce good crops of maize. But how are people to get there, and what is their produce to be done with, except for feeding swine ?
“After an incredible fatigue, Cayley with his party got to Mount Banks * [Footnote - * It would appear from the tracing which accompanies this account that the Mount Banks here alluded to is that now known as Mount King George. it is probable also that the Table Hill, of Caley, is Mount Tomah. Both Blaxland and Lawson give bearings of a Mount Banks in their journals (1813), corresponding with Mount King George; but Evans, who followed them, did not mention in his journal either Mount Banks or Table Hill; nor did Governor Macquarie make any reference to them in his account of the journey over the Mountains upon the completion of the Great Western Road in 1815. Caley evidently kept to the high lands and ridges which lie between the valleys of the Grose and Warragamba.] the twelfth day after he left Richmond Hill. Of the appearance of the country to the westward, the following are his remarks : - ‘On looking to the westward saw no large vallies [sic], except the one close to us, from which the ground apparently kept rising gradually as far as the eye could see. In a few places there appeared swamps; in others no trees and very scrubby. By these appearances it might be imagined easy to travel over that space, provided the inaccessible valley close at hand was crossed. yet there is no doubt but what others of a similar nature would present themselves as I am too well convinced now of their rugged and impassable state, which become at every step an ha-ha.’
“The journal of Cayley, from which I have made the preceding extracts, appear to me so coincident with the general truth of his narrative in this and other cases, that I cannot help thinking that persevering in crossing these mountains, which are a confused and barren assemblage of mountains with impassable chasms between, would be as chimerical as useless. few posses the bodily strength and enthusiastic mind which Cayley does to encounter such researches; yet with these qualities within himself, being well equipped, and having the strongest men in the colony to assist him, nevertheless, with all those advantages, nothing but his enthusiasm could have enabled him to perform that journey. * [Footnote - * As Caley’s party went on foot, they had to carry all their provisions.] From its effects he did not recover for some time after his return.
“As far as respects the extension of agriculture beyond the first range of mountains, that is an idea that must be given up, as the rocks to the west of that range wear the most barren and forbidding aspect, which men, animals, birds, and vegetation has ever been strangers to, a better proof of which cannot be adduced than to remark of one of cayley’s aprty in returning, who exclaimed, on seeing two solitary crows, ‘that they had lost their way.’
PHILIP GIDLEY KING.”
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